Black strappy bra

Strappy set
I got intrigued by all those strappy bras that seem to pop up everywhere. They don’t look too comfortable, but they sure look good. Having made all my own lingerie all this time, naturally I would love to make one myself. A custom made strappy bra for myself!
Strappy set Strappy set

My version is based on Merckwaerdigh PBH30, af frameless push-up bra pattern. It is actually quite simple to make, the cups are made with stretch lace and the rest is lots of straps. It is quite funny how the bra only needs very little scraps of stretch lace.

To decide the length of the straps, I use the bridge and band pattern pieces as guide. The Y-shaped straps on the front are added last. After attaching the hook and eye and shpulder straps, I put on the bra to decide the length of the Y-shaped straps. Store bought bras often have sliders in this area, but I just made mine without sliders. This part can be easily diassembled and readjusted.
Strappy set

The thong pattern Is Ghia by Ohh Lulu in size S. I used stretch mesh fabric for the center front and back and stretch lace on the sides. I couldnt find plush elastics here in Japan, but I found this soft elastic with one good side. I attached it on the wrong side first and then folded it to the right side. Basically the inverse of plush elasic application.

Strappy set

As I have imagined, the bra is not very comfortable, but surprisingly not THAT uncomfortable. I don’t think I will make another though. I mean, one strappy bra is enough for all your needs isn’t it?

Now what I need to know is how do you wear a strappy bra? Do you just keep it as a pretty secret underneath your clothes or do you wear it with certain outfit that can show it off?

Strappy setBra pattern is Merckwaerdigh PBH30 size 30E.
Thong pattern is Ohh Lulu 1308 Gia (PDF) size S.

Neon yellow set

Neon yellow set Neon yellow set
I’ve been playing around with this neon stretch lace fabric that I got sometime ago. The fabric is very stretchy and transparent.

For the first set, the pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHB40. The pattern set has two underwired bra pattern and two bodysuit with low leg cut patterns. One of the bra is actually has three-piece cup although the drawings show that both bras have two-piece cup. This came as a nice surprise for me as I have planned to draft a three-piece cup bra.
Neon yellow set Neon yellow set

The notions are from the Basic Kit that I got from Makebra. They has the best foam padding that I have ever encountered. I cut the cup pattern without seam allowance (except for the underwire allowance) for the foam padding and attach them together using zigzag stitch with width set on 5 and length set on 0.5 – as shown by Erin on this post. I think the result is indeed quite stronger than my usual method.

Usually I use zigzag stitch with width set on 3 or 4 and length set on 2. Afterwards, I would cover the seam with lining strips and topstitch them with three step zigzag stitch. Using this new satin stitch method, I don’t have to cover the seam with lining strips anymore.

Neon yellow set Neon yellow set

With the black foam underneath, the neon yellow lace shows the most contrast. The thong has no lining and you can see that the appearance looks quite different than the bra.

As for the fit, I always have good fit with any Merkwaerdigh bra pattern and this one is not an exception.

Neon yellow set Neon yellow set

The second set is made with Watson bra and bikini pattern by Cloth Habit. I made size 30C according the measurement chart. The bra and panties are lined with powernet in the same neon color, the lining pieces are basted to the main pieces and treated as single pieces.

Neon yellow set Neon yellow set
With the neon mesh net as lining, the transparency is reduced but you can still see a hint of skin when the set is being worn. I find that this stretch lace is quite fragile, so lining them is a good decision.
Neon yellow set Neon yellow set
Although it is a soft bra, I’m surprised that it is quite supportive and comfortable. In fact, this bra has become one of my favorite bra to wear recently. The cups are a bit too small though, so next time I might make my usual size, 30D.
Neon yellow set Neon yellow set

Acually I’m not too sure if I like this fabric or not. The color is very bright and interesting, but I find the fabric a bit too fragile. I’m afraid I will create a hole everytime I put them on. But both bra patterns are very good and comfortable. I also really like the Watson bikini pattern.

Anyway, I have the same fabric in other color for another set of lingerie. The other one is neon pink. I don’t know why I keep buying these neon fabrics!
Foam cup bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHB40, size 30D.
Thong pattern is Kwik Sew 2075 (out of print), size S.
Soft bra pattern is Cloth Habit Watson bra, size 30C.
Undies pattern is Cloth Habit Watson bikini, size S.
Bra notions are Makebra the Basic Kit in black.

Lace Brazillians panties – Boobytraps patterns


Lace Brazillians panties

These lace panties look so weird when not worn, but they actually fit really well on me – surprisingly quite comfortable too! These are a couple of quick things that I made yesterday with a new pattern. I\\’ve heard about Booby Traps patterns before but this Australian-based company only ship to Canada, England, America, and New Zealand. Until recently I found out that they have digital patterns!

For my first try, I chose the simplest one (in my opinion) which is the Lace Brazillians. This pattern only needs some stretch lace and cotton jersey for the gusset. Although the pattern and instructions are in PDF format, they are not instant download. They sent me a dropbox link a day after I placed the order. The pattern is in A2 format, so I had to tile-printed it. I wish that they will format the patterns for A4 in the future.
\\'Lace \\'Lace
As I\\’ve thought, this is a very quick and easy pattern. After finished cutting the pattern, it only took about 15 minutes to make a pair of panties. Because it only uses stretch lace, you don\\’t have to fiddle with attaching underwear elastic like usual panties.

For the constructions, I only use sewing machine to make the panties. I use straight stitch for all the center seam, then topstitched from the right side using wide triple zigzag stitch the keep the seam allowances flat.The waistband is attached to the back and front piece using triple zigzag stitches. The cotton jersey is attached last, again using triple zigzag stitches.

\\'Lace \\'Lace

I have lots of stretch lace bought on sale or left over from past projects, so this pattern is perfect for them. I\\’m happy with the result and now intrigued to try other Booby Traps patterns!

\\'Lace \\'Lace

Pattern is Lace Brazillians by Booby Traps, size 8 (PDF pattern).

Slip dress and panties

White slip dress and panties
I like to wear a slip under my unlined dress to keep them from clinging. So when I found this very soft white jersey in a sale box, I immediately got to work and turned it into a slip dress! The jersey is very soft and stretchy, very comfortable against the skin.

Merckwaerdigh E-O2

Merckwaerdigh E-O2

The pattern is Merckwaerdigh O2, described as: “Pattern O2 from Dutch design Merckwaerdigh with a lovely underwired bra-shirt and a close fitted slipdress. Comes in sizes S till XXL for the slipdress and for the bra-shirt”. I’ve used this pattern before to make this nude and black underwired bra slip dress. This time I made the close-fitted slip dress so I can wear it over my bra.

The close-fitted slip pattern has princess seam lines and gently shaped curves over the breast. I lengthened the pattern a bit so it reaches mid-thigh and omitted the lace on the hem.

The pattern actually has lace straps that look very sweet, but the lace showed when I tried wearing the slip under a dress. So I made a simple strap by wrapping the fabric over some elastic and triple zig-zag stitched over them.

White slip dress and panties White slip dress and panties

Although the pattern has no particular construction for the breast, the shaped seams actually gives some sort of light support. I don’t usually go bra-less, but in this slip I might be able to do it. Maybe for lounging around the house. Although why would I wear such a pretty slip just for lounging around the house?

I still have some leftover fabric for a couple of panties, using my most -used pattern Merckwaerdigh MIX30. Anyway, photographing white fabric and white lace is so difficult! I hope you can still see the details.
White slip dress and panties White slip dress and panties
White slip dress and panties White slip dress and panties

Now I need to make an unlined dress to wear over this slip!
Slip dress pattern is Merckwaerdigh O2, size S.
Panties pattern is Merckwaerdigh MIX30, size S.

Soft bra set – Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Soft bra set Soft bra set

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

My first sewing in 2015! Actually I didn’t really plan to make this set. I was tidying up my lingerie supply stash to see what I have when I found some leftover fabric. I made the peach and grey lingerie set in 2011, the bra is not worn anymore as the size turned out to be not quite right.

This time I use Merkwaerdigh BHS10 for the pattern. It is such a useful set of patterns with different backs that can be mixed and matched. I chose the soft bra option, the yellow one on the bottom left in this picture.

I still have some grey plush elastics just enough for the underband and the sides of the bra. But for the panties I use peach colored plush elastic.

Soft bra set Soft bra set

The bra uses the lace edges on front and inner straps, I reinforced these area with clear elastic stitched on three step zigzag stitch. The bra straps on the back are reused from the first peach and grey set.

The lower cup and bridge of the bra are lined with non-stretch fabric and the back band is lined with powernet. All the seams, except for where the side lace meets the cups, are enclosed within the fabric and lining. The side lace is stitched on top of the cups using three step zigzag stitches.

Soft bra set Soft bra set

I wish I have enough fabric for a second panties, but there was only little remnants left after I finished cutting. Well, I still have a couple of panties from my first set so I can wear them with this bra.

Soft bra set Soft bra set

Pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 size 30D. Panties pattern is self-drafted.

Sewing in 2014

Happy New Year! The three of us caught influenza just a few days before new year so we didn’t do anything special this year. We are better now and hopefully next week we can go out and enjoy the holiday. Except for my husband who has to go back to work. Boo!

Anyway, here’s a compilation of all the sewing I did in 2014. I love doing this every year so I can see what kind of things that I should make more, make less, or stop making.

For myself: Surprisingly only two dresses! They didn’t get much wear either so maybe I don’t really need more dresses in my life at the moment. Everything else got worn quite often, and my favorites are the Burda military jacket and wool coat.
Lola woven pants Plantain top and Sara leggings Floral bomber jacket Kate dress

Issy top and Elle pants Summer concert tee Cyd top and Wallis pants Bellatrix blazer

Coco cat topRunning belt Tara top Striped Jorna dress

Plaid shirt and denim skirt Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants Coppélia cardi

SJ tee and Sandra jeans Ensis tee Oversized cardigan  Bronte top

Wool coat Wyome boyfriend jeans Military jacket

Linden sweatshirt Linden sweatshirt


Lingerie: I love and wear all of them! Except for those tights. It turned out that the back seaming really bothers me because I always try to make sure that they are straight all the time, which is impossible. Too bad, because those tights are really nice to look at.

I started to learn drafting my own bra and panties from a book, and have been really enjoying it. The last two sets that I made were self-drafted. Making lingerie is still one of my favorite thing!

Bronze bra and panties set Here Kitty Kitty set #2

Rose hip tights Rose hip tights Rose hip tights Rose hip tights

Fuchsia and black set Colorful dotty bra set

Soft bra set (Merckwaerdigh BHS10) White bra set

Print mesh bra set


For Sidra: Two pairs of pants and a couple T-shirts – both in stripes. As he is growing, Sidra no longer wants unnecessary details on his clothes and prefers them to be as practical as possible. Which is not very challenging to sew for me. ‘What? No more colors and cute characters??’

It is okay though, he is becoming a man with his own taste and style. I will learn to know more about what he wants to wear. He really likes those jeans though, so I can make him another pair this year.

Stripes t-shirt and khaki pants Small Fry Skinny jeans


For my husband: Speaking of jeans, this is what I made for my husband. I really enjoyed making those jeans, all the details are very fun to make. Again, this is all about what I like and not what he likes. Of course my husband will wear anything that I make for him, but he doesn’t actually care about a specific kind of denim. He wears these jeans all the time, but he just needs any pants that look good and are comfortable to wear.

This year I want to learn to know more about what he really wants to wear, and I will make them if they are interesting to me.

MenMen Men





For Fuwawa: Do dogs need clothes? They don’t care about fashion and they already have fur to protect them. I agree that dogs don’t care about fashion, but some dogs do need clothes! Fuwawa has very thin and wispy hair that you can see her pink skin. She also has some health problems that gets worse when the weather changes. I notice that she doesn’t shiver as much when she’s wearing clothes. Of course, dog clothes are fun to make, a good way to use up leftovers, and they are just soooo cute!

Fur bolero Dog raglan shirt Dog turtleneck T-shirt Dog T-shirt Dog T-shirt Dog overall

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