Soft bras (Watson and Jalie 3131)

Watson bra and lace tanga
Taking picture of my new bra

It seems that nowadays I sew more lingerie than ordinary clothes. Sewing lingerie is so addictive. The pieces are small so it doesn’t take too much space, but the number of variations and alterations that can be made are endless. Wearing a pretty set of lingerie always makes me happy, as if I’m having a beautiful secret.

Watson bra and lace tanga Watson bra and lace tanga

Here is the most popular Watson bra. I’m sure you have seen this pattern around the blogosphere and maybe have made one for yourself! It is indeed a beautiful pattern with very clear instructions. I used white stretch lace because I want a white bra that can be easily matched with other panties.

The cups are lined with white powernet, while the bridge is lined with non-stretch lining. I made the longline version in size 30D, shortening the height of the band a bit because I’m short-waisted.

Watson bra and lace tanga Watson bra and lace tanga
I was very satisfied with the fit and how pretty it looks. However, after wearing it for sometime I found that the bottom band keep flipping up. I’m not sure what causes this, probably because I’m short-waisted? To fix this problem, I stitched underwire casing on the sides and center front of the bra, and inserted rigilene plastic boning inside. Problem is fixed, no more rolling up! I feel that the boning also makes the bra keeps its shape better.
Watson bra and lace tanga Watson bra and lace tanga

The panties are made with Lace Tanga pattern by Sew Fast on Burdastyle. I have made this pattern several years ago for this red lace set. It’s free, very easy to sew, and doesn’t require any elastics.

Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242 Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242
The second set is made using Jalie patterns. I just found out that Jalie patterns are also available in PDF. How did I not know this?? Anyway I quickly went ahead to buy several patterns.
Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242 Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242

The bra pattern is Jalie 3131, it is a bra and camisole patterns in 17 sizes. In Jalie patterns, you pick the band pattern according to the underbust size and the cups pattern according to the full bust size. My underbust falls to size Q, and coincidentally my full bust is also size Q.

The panties pattern is Jalie 3242, it includes 6 underwear patterns for men, women, and children in 29 sizes. you can make underwear for the whole big family just using this one pattern. I also made size Q for this underwear, but it feels a bit too snug. So next time I will make size R.
Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242 Jalie 3131 and Jalie 3242

The instructions for both patterns are very good with diagrams and step by step instructions. You can even watch this video on how to sew the Jalie bra. I also like that Jalie patterns have suggested elastic length for every part that needs it. The bra cups and bridge are lined with powernet and all the seams inside are enclosed between the fabric and the lining.

Here is the fit of the Watson bra (size 30D) and Jalie 3131 (size Q) on me. My underbust is 26.5″ and full bust is 31.5″.

watsonside  jalieside
I really don’t like how the cups of Jalie bra seem to smush my breast. The cups on the Watson bra gives a much better shape compared to Jalie’s. Having said that, the Jalie bra is surprisingly very comfortable! I wore it reluctantly (because I hate the shape), but at the end of the day I went to sleep in it. The next day I even made another one with the leftover fabric!

Looking at the pictures of the Jalie bra, I probably need to make one cup size bigger although I have used the size according to measurements. I also might need a smaller band because I wear this one already in the tightest hook. However I’m not really sure if I want to experiment with this bra anymore because of its shape. But it is comfortable! But the shape! That’s the kind of dilemma that I face in daily life….

 

Patterns:

Notions:

Burdastyle stretch pencil skirt

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

I always like high waisted pencil skirt and have made them several times. This high waisted denim skirt that I made a couple of years ago is particularly a favorite, but recently I have found that my waist is getting smaller. The wide band of the skirt has boning in it so the waistband sticks out around my waist in a strange way. Maybe I should have altered it but I decided to make a new skirt!

103_tech_dwg_large
Burdastyle Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A

This time I use Burdastyle pattern, Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A. It is a pencil skirt made with stretch fabric, with wide waistband and an interesting seam and godet on the back side. I did my usual petite alteration for Burdastyle pattern, printing the pattern at 92% and cutting size 38.

Other alterations are 1 cm swayback adjustment on the back, and shortening the skirt about 5 cm. I shortened the skirt around the hip line so it wouldn’t affect the slight flare shape on the bottom of the skirt.

The fabric is grey black double jersey, the same kind as the one that I use for my red knit dress, and black knit lining. For this pattern, the lining is necessary to keep the stretch fabric from sagging.

The godet part has 1.5 cm hem. I finished the godet hem first before attaching it to the skirt. The skirt has 4 cm hem that closed over the godet seam allowance on the wrong side. I don’t know if I can explain that more clearly! Please see the picture below.

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet
Godet

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

The lining has no godet. It is attached to the skirt on the waistband, on each side of the zipper, and around the godet. Everything is done on sewing machine, no handstitching!

I also added some rigilene boning on the inside part of the waistband. Actually I prefer metal spiral boning, but it might be a bit of an overkill for this skirt.

Since the fabric is stretchy, the skirt is very comfortable and not restricting at all. You can see how far I can lift my leg!
Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

Pattern is Burdastyle Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.

Black and purple Marlborough bra

Black and purple Marlborough bra

More Orange Lingerie pattern! This time it is the Marlborough bra, an underwired bra pattern with power bars on each side of the cups. I use the bra kit that Jenny gifted me when she visited Tokyo sometime ago. Yes it is 8 months that this kit had been sitting in my stash…. Bra kit from Jenny… Continue Reading

Coral floral set

Coral floral set

The thing about making bra is that you can never know for sure how the fit is until you finish it. That is why I often have hesitations in trying new bra patterns. My go-to lingerie patterns are Merckwaerdigh’s. They have so many patterns and I can be sure that they will fit me as… Continue Reading

Dog down jacket

Dog down jacket

We planned to go to Kawaguchiko in the first weekend of 2016. Since Fuwawa doesn’t like cold weather, I made her a down jacket to wear while she’s there. The material is scavenged from Sidra’s overgrown down jacket. He’s growing fast, leaving lots of clothing material for Fuwawa and our foster dogs! This red quilted fabric is actually… Continue Reading

Lydia skirt – Boundless Style

Lydia skirt – Boundless Style

  A new skirt! I have lots of Indonesian batik fabric lying around, including this cotton batik from my sister-in-law. Probably not the best choice for winter, but I can always wear it with tights like I do here. The pattern is from the new book ‘Boundless Style – A Mix-and-Match Sewing Pattern Workbook’ by Kristiann… Continue Reading

T-shirt refashions

T-shirt refashions

Fuwawa usually wears clothes in colder months, so it is time for another dogwear fashion! I seem to always get comments regarding her need for clothes, so yes, Fuwawa is a dog and she does need clothes. Although long, the fur of Chinese Crested Powder Puff are thin and they get cold easily. She is also quite old -nine… Continue Reading

Sports bra and leggings (and a birthday)

Sports bra and leggings (and a birthday)

The knee-length yoga leggings that I made last July are one of the most-worn item that I’ve ever made. But since the weather got cold, I have gone back to wearing my old store-bought leggings. I suppose it is time to make another leggings! I have been learning more about sewing workout wear through Sew and Draft… Continue Reading