Summer kimono for Fuwawa

Yukata for Fuwawa

Time for another dog fashion! This is the second time I made a dog yukata or summer kimono. The first one is for Bashu, a Chinese Crested that we fostered 3 years ago. This time it is for our beloved ten years old Chinese crested, Fuwawa. Bashu and Fuwawa were in the same breeder before they were given up to the shelter. Bashu has been adopted to a nice family and Fuwawa was adopted by us.
Yukata for Fuwawa Yukata for Fuwawa

The pattern is Kawaii Kimono by Millamilla in size M. MillaMilla is a Japanese dog patternmaker, the original patterns are in Japanese but you can also buy the English version of their patterns in their English site and etsy shop.

Yukata for Fuwawa

The instructions are pretty easy and straightforward. The kimono has a velcro closure on the front so it is very easy to put on. I added a leash hole on the back part so Fuwawa can wear her harness underneath the kimono. The thing with making dogwear is you only need very little fabric to make it (unless you have a very big dog of course!), so it is a great projects for scraps.

Here is Fuwawa in her new kimono. I think the color complements her fur color quite well!

Yukata for Fuwawa

Pattern is Kawaii Kimono (PDF) by MillaMilla, English site and etsy shop

Favorite pattern – Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

These three bras are made with the same pattern: Merckwaerdigh BHS 10. This pattern has now become my favourite! Here you can see how the same pattern made with different fabric can look quite different.

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10 Merckwaerdigh BHS10

jersey

Jersey bra

This one is made with grey jersey and has a racerback with no closure.

You can see from the photo that it is not very ‘lifting’. This is because the outer layer and lining are both stretch jersey. This is my sleeping bra though, so I like that it is not restricting and the cotton jersey is quite comfortable.

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10 Merckwaerdigh BHS10

lace

Stretch lace bra

The second one is made with stretch lace fabric and lined with transparent tricot in beige. Similar to my white soft bra, I use clear elastic on the neckline and along the lace edge of the strap.

The back band is soft powernet in double layer. The outer layer is beige and the inner layer is yellow. From the outside, the beige band has a hint of yellow which complement the soft yellow stretch lace.Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10

Merckwaerdigh BHS10 Merckwaerdigh BHS10

sports

Foam lined bra

This one has foam lining on the whole front part and finished with foldover elastic allover. The back band is strong powernet with 3 hook and eye closure. I use this bra as a sports bra. My sport is yoga though, so it doesn’t really need strong impact reduction bra.

The neon yellow fabric is wicking fabric from a sports T-shirt. I bought the T-shirt in size L and still have enough leftover for another bra and panties. The foam lining is from Makebra that I really like. I think the quality of their foam lining is the best that I’ve ever found.

For my size (30E), I use cup size 36B and shortened the back quite a lot. If you do this kind of alteration, special attention is needed to the placement of the straps on the back. I forgot to do this on my previous bra, and as a result the straps on the back are quite far apart.

Because they have no underwires, these bras are very light. The powerbar on each side of the cups gives quite a flattering shape. I’m very happy with this pattern!

Bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 size 30E.

Kielo wrap dress #2

Grey Kielo dress

In my previous post about my Kielo wrap dress, I mentioned that I wasn’t quite happy with my fabric choice. So here is my second Kielo wrap dress! The fabric is quite interesting, it is actually two separate layers of thin jersey connected together around each dots.

Not much to say about alteration nor construction. The only difference that I made for this dress is finishing the armhole and necklines with knit band instead of bias binding.

I’m quite happy with this version! The dress is very comfortable and flattering.
Grey Kielo dress

Grey Kielo dress

Grey Kielo dress
Pattern is Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%

White soft bra set

White soft bra set

A couple of weeks ago I got the chance to meet Ying from Tailor Made Blog, who was in vacation in Japan. If you love making lingerie, you might have known or even bought from her lingerie supplies shop. Of course she has very kindly gifted me several lingerie supplies, including this pretty white stretch lace! Thank you Ying!
White soft bra set

Making soft braThe bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 , this pattern is such a steal because you get 5 bra patterns in one package. This time I use the soft laced bra pattern in size 30E. The pattern actually doesn’t have size 30E, so I use size 32D and shortened the back band.

The whole cups are stabilized with transparent white tricot. I put clear elastic on the lace edges of the neckline and the power bar. The underarm is finished with foldover elastic. The straps are not adjustable, I put the bra on and mark the length before stitching them down on the back band.
White soft bra set White soft bra set

 

White soft bra set

The panties are based on my favorite panties pattern, Merckwaerdigh low rider. I added center front seam and center back seam so the lace edges can be used around the leg. The panties are lined with soft power net. I had thought about how to finish the edges of the power net, but then I decided to simply leave it hang loose.
White soft bra set White soft bra set
front back

I’m quite happy with the result! When I decided on the pattern, I thought that the bra would be for home wear only. My first version of this pattern was very comfortable but doesn’t have enough support because I didn’t line the stretch lace. With fully lined cups, this white bra turned out to have enough support with nice shaping. One thing that I would change is the placement of the back straps, they are too far from each other at the moment. Because it doesn’t have foam nor underwire, this bra is very light while still comfortable. I’m planning my second one at the moment!
White soft bra set White soft bra set

Patterns:

Kielo wrap dress

Kielo wrap dress Kielo wrap dress

This is the second dress that I made from the fabrics that I bought in Indonesia. The beautiful print and color combination caught my eyes immediately. The price is also a bargain at about USD5/meter.

The fabric is stretch polyester and quite slinky. I knew that I wanted to make a dress with it, preferably with as little seamlines as possible so the beautiful print wouldn’t be cut. So I was quite happy when I stumbled upon Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns, a simple maxi dress with an interesting shape. It has diamond shape with two waist ties and back vent. The dress has a couple of sleeve dart on the front and a couple of back darts.

Kielo wrap dress

Named patterns are designed for the height of 172 cm / 5’8″, which is quite far from 150 cm / 4’11” that is my height. I used the same way that I usually do for Burdastyle patterns, printing the pattern at 92% and cut size 38. I found that this is the best way to make the pattern petite for me. Further alteration were shortening the bodice about 1 cm and the skirt about 5 cm. Everything is about making the pattern shorter!

Eventually all the alterations worked quite well. The dress is now at the right proportion to my body. Sewing process was quite simple. The most lengthy process was probably making the ties since it has to be lightly interfaced and turned out. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding.

Kielo wrap dress Kielo wrap dress

I find that the dress can be worn in several ways. With the ties wrapped around for a tighter fit or loosely tied for a looser fit. You can even knot the ties at the front or the back for a different look. A very versatile dress.

One thing that I don’t really like about the dress has nothing to do with the pattern at all. Since the fabric is polyester, it turned out to be not the perfect choice for summer. In the hottest days, the fabric emanates some sort of ‘burnt polyester smell’ if you know what I mean. It is also quite transparent so I have to wear slip dress underneath, which cancels the purpose of a loose summer dress. But it sure does look good!

I’m still very intrigued with the pattern, so hopefully I will find another nice fabric for my second Kielo!

Kielo wrap dress

Pattern is Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%

Drape Drape dress no. 3

Drape Drape dress no.3 Drape Drape dress no.3

IMG_9377 IMG_9383 IMG_9384
IMG_9381When in Indonesia last month, I met up with a couple of my good friends. They are both fashion designers, so of course one of our destinaton was the fabric store! I had often visited fabric stores with them about 20 years ago when the three of us were in fashion school, so it was quite a nostalgic journey.

The store is called Pronto Moda in Mayestik area, Jakarta, quite a big store with four floors and a considerable choice of fabrics. It was not crowded at all, so the shopping experience was really comfortable.

My friend told me that the fabrics in the store are quite cheap and he was right! I bought several fabrics there and one of them is this striped terrycloth jersey at about USD3/metre. I’m very happy with my purchases here.

Drape drape dress no.3

Drape drape dress no.3

The fabric is quite perfect for summer dress. As I was looking for the right pattern, I stumbled across several dresses by sewing bloggers made from the Drape Drape pattern book by Hisako Sato.

Actually I have had this book (in Japanese) since 2009 but somehow never made anything from it. This book is now available in English as well.

Drape Drape dress no.3

Dress no.3 is a very interesting pattern with only one piece of pattern. The dress is closed with an invisble zipper at the seam across the back. Since many sewing bloggers commented that the dress is rather short, I added 10 cm in length. But at the end, I decided to cut it back to its original length. I guess Japanese patterns are a good fit for petite body types.

I cut size M with no fitting alterations. Since my fabric is quite stretchy, I omitted the back zipper. The dress might look rather complicated, but sewing it is quite easy! The instruction has sewing order so you will know which one goes first. The neckline and sleeves hem are simply turned in and topstitched, I used zigzag stitches to keep the stretchiness.

 

Drape Drape dress no.3 Drape Drape dress no.3
Drape Drape dress no.3 Drape Drape dress no.3

At first I thought the dress looked rather shapeless, but I love it immediately after putting it on. It is very comfortable, like wearing a long T-shirt. I love how the stripes of my fabric are meeting in an upward shape at the back. This is now my new favourite dress!

Pattern is dress no.3 from Drape Drape book by Hisako Sato (Japanese pattern), size M.

Pattern testing: Sophie Swimsuit

Sophie swimsuit Sophie swimsuit
Summer is here and it means another good reason for a new swimsuit! Luckily a couple of months ago I was offered to be one of the pattern testers for Sophie Swimsuit by Closet Case Files. This swimsuit has classic silhouette and very flattering balconette cups. “View A is a classic one-piece with a pronounced hourglass shape and skinny elastic straps. View B mixes a bra-style halter tied top with an elegant high waisted bikini bottom. With a low cut leg and a full cup, both offer sexily modest coverage.”
Sophie swimsuit

Initially  I made view A in a quick muslin version only because I’m not really sure about wearing a bikini. But then I saw how good the bikini looked, so I decided to make view B with foam cups and underwires.

The Sophie swimsuit has its own method of measurements. According to this system, my underbust size is 0 with cup size 5. The only alteration I made was narrowing the center gore because I have small space between breasts. This is something that I always do for any bra pattern.

Sophie swimsuit Sophie swimsuit

For the bikini bottom, I had to chop the length quite generously because I’m petite. My bikini bottom was quite high-waisted. I found that I don’t like it although I love seeing high-waisted bikini on other people. As I have a short bodice, there is not many space left between the top and bottom. So I chop the top of the bikini bottom as well.

The fabric and lining are from Okadaya fabric store in Shinjuku. Although I used my own ways in several sections, I find that the instruction is very clear. It also includes stitch types suggestion for every part of the construction. I use black foldover elastic in several parts to add a subtle contrast.

Sophie swimsuit Sophie swimsuit
Sophie swimsuit Sophie swimsuit

I took my new swimsuit to our trip to Indonesia. We stayed in an apartment that has a small swimming pool on the second floor. In the pictures it may look like that I was in a resort in Bali or somewhere, but actually I was in the middle of busy Jakarta. If you were there, you could hear the sound of cars and trucks passing by. That is not important though, as long as I feel great in my peacock swimsuit!
Sophie swimsuit Sophie swimsuit
Pattern is Sophie swimsuit by Closet Case Files (PDF) view B, size 0 cup 5 for top and size 6 for bottom.

Disclosure: The pattern was sent to me for testing purpose. All views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

Monpe pants

Monpe pantsI was in LOFT department store in Shibuya when I stumbled upon an exhibition featuring monpe pants by Unaginonedoko. At that time I had no idea what monpe mean, but I was really attracted to the colors and especially the relaxed shape of those pants.

Later I searched about monpe and found out that it is a kind of Japanese work pant. Made from durable work and characterized by its loose waist and narrow ankle, monpe was usually worn by women to work in the older days. Nowadays, modern version of monpe is made with elasticated waist and worn by both men and women.
Monpe pants
My further research (googling) led me to finding this monpe sewing pattern by Unaginonedoko that I immediately ordered. FYI, the name Unaginonedoko means eels’s bed, which is a pretty funny name. The pants have no side seam, one front patch pocket, and knee patches on the inside. Three sizes are included in the pattern: S (slim) for waist 65-85 cm and hip 110 cm, N (normal) for waist 66-86 cm and hip 120 cm, and W (wide) for waist 70-90 cm and hip 130 cm, all sizes have 66 cm inseam. The pattern is only available in Japan.
Monpe pants Monpe pants
I made two pairs of monpe for my husband. The first one is made with dark navy corduroy with diagonal lines. The fabric was not enough for the whole length, so I patched the hem with black fabric. I used the same black fabric for the knee patches. This is actually a muslin version, but my husband really loved it so I made him another pair.
Monpe pants Monpe pants

The second monpe is made with red Japanese katsuragi fabric, 100% cotton as he has always wanted a pair of red pants. I added a bit of length to the hem, that way it can be rolled up if wanted.
Monpe pants Monpe pants
Monpe pants Monpe pants

These pants are very comfortable because of the elasticated waist and loose shape. Made with the right fabric, they are perfect for summer. My husband loves both pants and have been wearing them regularly, putting his handmade jeans to rest for a while.

The pattern is actually a very simple with only one piece. I’m pretty sure that any pajama pants pattern with no side seam can be used to make a similar one. Sewing them is such an instant gratification because it was done so fast!
Monpe pants

Pattern is Monpe pants by Unaginonedoko (Japanese), size N. Only available in Japan.

Red lace set

Red lace set
My newest set! The bra is made with Marlborough bra by Orange LingerieThe first time I made this pattern, the fit wasn’t too great. Since then I have made several alterations to perfect the fit for my body, such as:

  • narrowed the centre piece because I have very little space between breasts
  • very narrow cradle
  • gothic arc on center front
  • back strap extension

If you notice, these are the alterations that I have always made on my bra recently. The cradle and band on all my recent bra are pretty similar, only the cups are different. It is also important to find out the perfect underwire shape for your shape. I just found out that the most comfortable underwire for me are are the ones that can find locally in Okadaya fabric store in Tokyo. A happy coincidence because I don’t have to order for overseas anymore.

Here’s the fit of the bra on me:

front back

The red lace and notions are from a kit by Tailor Made Shop. I use the lace edges on the neckline, edge of power bar, and bottom of the cradle and band. The cups are fully lined and all the seams are enclosed inside. The lace back band are lined with beige power net from my stash.

Initially I feel that the 3/8″ (1 cm) width straps are too narrow, I usually use 5/8″ (1.5 cm) width straps. But then I was glad to use the narrow straps because they are perfect for the dainty look of the red lace.
Red lace setRed lace set
Red lace set

The power mesh from the kit is quite generous that I made a couple of panties and still have some left. I combined the power mesh with red tricot from my stash. The first panties are made with my favorite pattern from Merckwaerdigh, the low-rider panty. I have made this pattern several times. The edges are finished with red foldover elastic.

The other pattern is The Ultimate Burlesque Panties by Ohhh Lulu. This pattern has high waist with several variations on the back. I made the ruched back variations. I rarely wear high-waist panties but it turned out that they are quite comfortable. Next time I will line the front part with power mesh so they can also act as shapewear.
Red lace set Red lace set
Red lace set Red lace set

I think this might be one of the prettiest thing that I have ever made! The red lace is very pretty and the fit is really comfortable. I feel beautiful every time I wear this et under my clothes, even though nobody can see them. It is my pretty little secret!

Patterns:

Notions:

Disclosure: The bra and underwear kit was sent to me by Tailor Made Shop for review. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

Kawung batik print set

Kawung print set
Several months ago I was contacted by Contrado about their new fabric printing service. It was actually the first time I heard about this company. When I checked out their website, I was impressed with the number of fabric options available. They have 80 options of fabrics from canvas, jersey, even scuba and waterproof ripstop!

Then I had to decide what I want to make. A summer dress? A raincoat? Canvas bags? I was a bit overwhelmed. If you want to order from Contrado, I really recommend to order their swatch pack first to have a feel at their full range of fabric. If deciding on what kind of fabric from so many options is not hard enough, the fabric design part is definitely challenging!
Batik print

I have always wanted to make lingerie with Indonesian batik print, however it is not easy to find suitable lingerie fabric with this kind of print. I have an Indonesian batik fabric from my stash that is perfect because it has several different motifs on it that I can choose from. I decided on one motif called ‘kawung’, a four lobed stylised flower based on palm blossom. There are many symbolical meanings behind this motif which is a very interesting topic on itself, but for now let’s just say that I like it for its simplicity.

What I did was scanning the motif first, then traced it on Illustrator so it can be manipulated as a vector image. The most important part is transforming the motif so it can be tiled to cover bigger area. I suggest to make several print samples to see if your tiled image match perfectly. Then I exported the image back to jpg format and uploaded it to Contrado.
Print and original batik fabric

The shipping was surprisingly fast, considering that it was sent all the way from UK to Japan. Here you can see the original batik fabric on the bottom with power net on the left and Lycra sheen on the right.
Power net kawung print Lycra sheen kawung print
The quality is very good! I often find printed Lycra that doesn’t look too good when the fabric is stretched, with white colour of the base fabric peeking between the weave. The one from Contrado has a bit of that but only if it is stretched too much. But stretched considerably, it is still look good.

The Lycra sheen is not satin shiny, but has a lovely sheen over it. Contrado also has Lycra matt and heavier Lycra that can be used for swimwear. The Florence power net is very lightweight and suitable for make mesh panties. When used as bra band, it needs reinforcement underneath. I simply used beige power net.
Kawung print set Kawung print set
The bra pattern is Boylston bra by Orange Lingerie with several of my favorite alterations:

  • narrowed the centre piece because I have very little space between breasts
  • very narrow cradle
  • changed the center front to gothic arch
  • added back strap extension
  • padded bra straps

Kawung print set
Kawung print set

The foam lining and band elastic were sent by Tailor Shop Made. I find out that I prefer wide elastic for the band as it is gives more stability. The turquoise elastics are from my stash and unfortunately is not very good as it stretches a bit too much.

Kawung print set Kawung print set

Both the panties pattern are new releases from Ohhh LuluJustine cut-out and Kelly hi-cut. The Justine uses lycra and power net while the Kelly is made entirely in power net. I shortened both pattern about 1 cm across the hip. Both are very attractive patterns.
Kawung print set Kawung print set
Kawung print set Kawung print set

And here’s the bra on me!

BWfront BWback

I still have Lycra and powernet from Contrado in different motifs that I am planning to make into different bra. More posts soon!

Patterns:

Notions:

Disclosure: Fabrics, foam lining, and band elastic are sent to me for review. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

Page 3 of 5912345...102030...Last »