Burdastyle stretch pencil skirt

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

I always like high waisted pencil skirt and have made them several times. This high waisted denim skirt that I made a couple of years ago is particularly a favorite, but recently I have found that my waist is getting smaller. The wide band of the skirt has boning in it so the waistband sticks out around my waist in a strange way. Maybe I should have altered it but I decided to make a new skirt!

103_tech_dwg_large

Burdastyle Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A

This time I use Burdastyle pattern, Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A. It is a pencil skirt made with stretch fabric, with wide waistband and an interesting seam and godet on the back side. I did my usual petite alteration for Burdastyle pattern, printing the pattern at 92% and cutting size 38.

Other alterations are 1 cm swayback adjustment on the back, and shortening the skirt about 5 cm. I shortened the skirt around the hip line so it wouldn’t affect the slight flare shape on the bottom of the skirt.

The fabric is grey black double jersey, the same kind as the one that I use for my red knit dress, and black knit lining. For this pattern, the lining is necessary to keep the stretch fabric from sagging.

The godet part has 1.5 cm hem. I finished the godet hem first before attaching it to the skirt. The skirt has 4 cm hem that closed over the godet seam allowance on the wrong side. I don’t know if I can explain that more clearly! Please see the picture below.

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

Godet

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

The lining has no godet. It is attached to the skirt on the waistband, on each side of the zipper, and around the godet. Everything is done on sewing machine, no handstitching!

I also added some rigilene boning on the inside part of the waistband. Actually I prefer metal spiral boning, but it might be a bit of an overkill for this skirt.

Since the fabric is stretchy, the skirt is very comfortable and not restricting at all. You can see how far I can lift my leg!
Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet Burdastyle stretch skirt with godet

Pattern is Burdastyle Stretch Pencil Skirt 02/2011 #103A (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.

Black and purple Marlborough bra

Purple and black set

More Orange Lingerie pattern! This time it is the Marlborough bra, an underwired bra pattern with power bars on each side of the cups.

I use the bra kit that Jenny gifted me when she visited Tokyo sometime ago. Yes it is 8 months that this kit had been sitting in my stash….

Bra kit from Jenny @cashmerette ! Thank you, I'm so excited! 👙

A post shared by Novita (@verypurpleperson) on

I cut the same size as my Boylston bra without making any muslin, assuming that everything would go as smoothly well as before. Of course I was wrong!

This bra is designed for rigid lace and fabric with no to very little stretch on the front part, and the kit has perfectly reflected that. But as a result, the bra feels quite restricting to me. The cups fit relatively well and I can hook the band without any problem, but the lack of stretch on the front part is too much for me.

I think this bra might be better for the more well-endowed ladies who need really strong support. I need the movement and comfortability of stretch fabric. Smaller people also tend to have less ‘cushion’ under the bust, I can feel the strict band gripping my ribs and it’s a bit hurting after a while.

Purple and black set Purple and black set

Purple and black set Purple and black set

Similar thing happened to the Montgomery brief. I can wear it, but the rigid lace front part feels too restricting. The previous Montgomery brief that I made is very comfortable, but this one in exactly the same size is very rigid and not comfortable at all. That is why you don’t see it on the dummy, I couldn’t get it past the dummy’s hip.

Actually I quite like the shape of the bra on me. It is such a pity this set is not comfortable because it looks so beautiful! I plan to make this pattern again in lined stretch fabric like my Boylston bra.

Purple and black set Purple and black set

IMG_6018 copyHere’s another black and white picture of the bra on me. Isn’t it pretty? Too bad I can’t wear it too long. Next time will be better!

 

Bra pattern is Marlborough bra by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size 30DD.
Brief pattern is Montgomery brief by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size XS.

Coral floral set

Coral floral set

Coral floral set

The thing about making bra is that you can never know for sure how the fit is until you finish it. That is why I often have hesitations in trying new bra patterns. My go-to lingerie patterns are Merckwaerdigh’s. They have so many patterns and I can be sure that they will fit me as always, so why trying something new?

Well, why not! Lately the bra patterns by Orange lingerie seem to be everywhere around the sewing blogs, so I got curious. At the end, I’m happy that I got curious!

For this set I use nude coloured lycra from Okadaya in Shinjuku, powernet from Tomato in Nippori, lace from this ebay store, foam lining from Makebra, and notions from Merckwaerdigh. The pattern is Boylston bra in size 30DD.
Coral floral set Coral floral set

IMG_5269

Boylston bra muslin

The pattern is very well-drafted with clear instructions. I love that the pattern pieces have both the stitching line and the seam allowance. This means that I can adjust the seam allowance easily if needed.

Since I don’t want to waste my precious fabric, I made a muslin first. It fits me quite well! In fact, this muslin bra is now one of my daily bra. The muslin bra is made from polyester fabric with little stretch and white lining. The fabric is letfover from my neon skirt.

For the coral set, I added foam lining on the cups. I also moved the placement of the straps at the front about 1 cm to the center front direction.

The floral lace was not much, so I just put it on the upper cups and used the rest for the panties. I also use elastic straps instead of fabric straps. I think it fits better for the delicate look of the lace.

Do you see how he colour of the Merckwaerdigh notions fits perfectly with the colour of the lace? I am very happy about it! Especially because I’m not very confident about dyeing my own elastics and notions.
Coral floral set Coral floral set

After finishing the bra, I wanted to try another Orange lingerie pattern so I bought the Montgonery brief pattern. The bottom of this brief is cut on fold, eliminating the need to use elastic for a smooth look under clothing. No VPL!

This pattern is another success for me. I was pleased to find that the bottom provides enough coverage although without elastics.

Coral floral set Coral floral set
Coral floral set Coral floral set
The second panty were made with Gia thong pattern by OhhLulu that I have used several times.
Coral floral set Coral floral set
Coral floral set Coral floral set

IMG_6020 copyI’m very happy with this set, especially with the pretty colours and the fit. The only thing that I want to change for my next one is moving the straps at the back a bit closer. And probably it is better if the band elastic is wider.

Here is how the bra on me. I realize that picture is modelled bra is quite important if I want to show how the fit is. I apologize that it is in black and white!

Bra pattern is Boylston bra by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size 30DD.
Brief pattern is Montgomery brief by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size XS.
Thong pattern is Ohh Lulu 1308 Gia (PDF) size S.

Dog down jacket

Dog down jacket Dog down jacket
We planned to go to Kawaguchiko in the first weekend of 2016. Since Fuwawa doesn’t like cold weather, I made her a down jacket to wear while she’s there.

The material is scavenged from Sidra’s overgrown down jacket. He’s growing fast, leaving lots of clothing material for Fuwawa and our foster dogs! This red quilted fabric is actually a removable lining. The outer jacket already has lots of mending stitches so I didn’t use it.
Dog down jacket
Dog down jacket

The red jacket has black lining that I also used for Fuwawa’s jacket. The upper part of the back lining is flannel for added warmth. Naturally I have to shorten the zipper in considerable amount.

Dog down jacket Dog down jacket

As usual, I use dogwear pattern by Millamilla. This pattern is called ‘Quilted puffer jacket’, the instruction starts by quilting your fabric that I skipped since the fabric is already quilted. I changed the buttoned front to zipper so I can reuse the zipper from the old jacket.

Instead of ribbing, I finished the hem and sleeves with foldover elastic. The ribbed collar is changed into square collar made with the quilted fabric.

Dog down jacket Dog down jacket

The jacket proved quite useful! She didn’t shiver in the cold weather anymore. However, Fuwawa didn’t seem too excited about the long trip there. All she wants to do is just to sleep on the couch at home!
Dog down jacket Dog down jacket

Kawaguchiko

Hello from Kawaguchiko!

Pattern is Dog quilted puffer jacket by Millamilla, size M.

Sewing in 2015

It’s the last day in 2015! Let’s take a look back to my sewing journey this year.

Womenswear

More variations this year. Culottes, jacket, jeans, shorts, skirts, dresses. And I’m happy to say that most of them get lots of wearing time!

Cropped top and culottes Striped T-shirt and culottes Burdastyle Wide Sleeve Lapel Jacket 02/2015 #122 Sandra jeans and Basic tank

Yoga wear Shorts and white tee Neon skirt The Strides trousers

Burdastyle halter dress and Saki shrug Hooded cow neck dress Red knit dress Lydia skirt - Boundless Style

Lingerie

Why do I love making lingerie so much?? I still can’t stop making them this year!
Soft bra set White slip dress and panties Lace Brazillian panties Lace Brazillian panties

Soma swimsuit

Neon yellow set

Neon yellow set
Sports bra and leggings
Strappy set

Black and maroon bra

Sidra

I only got to make him this suit that he wore to elementary school graduation. Then he got into junior high school and since then he is in uniform or sports uniform all the time. No new clothes needed. That’s a pity because I love making him clothes.

Graduation day

My husband

A pair of pants and a sweater. No new jeans this year.
Jedediah pants Finlayson sweater

Bag

Only one bag, which is also my most-used item! Initially I made it for my husband, then I tried using it one day and never returned it back.
Desmond backpack

Fuwawa

She only gets a couple of T-shirt refashions this year. Especially because she still has all the clothes that I made her the previous year!
T-shirt for Fuwawa T-shirt for Fuwawa

See you in 2016!

Lydia skirt – Boundless Style

Lydia skirt - Boundless Style Lydia skirt - Boundless Style

A new skirt! I have lots of Indonesian batik fabric lying around, including this cotton batik from my sister-in-law. Probably not the best choice for winter, but I can always wear it with tights like I do here.
Boundless Style Boundless Style

The pattern is from the new book ‘Boundless Style – A Mix-and-Match Sewing Pattern Workbook’ by Kristiann Boos of Victory Patterns. This is no ordinary sewing pattern book. Instead of several separate patterns in one book, you get five bodices, five sleeves, and five skirts that can be mixed and matched to create a whole wardrobe – boundless style. I think it is such a great concept because sometimes I do that too, making a custom frankenpattern of several different pattern. But with this book, I can always be sure that my seam matches.

Boundless Style
Boundless Style
Boundless Style

Each pattern comes with variations. Bodices have different details, sleeves and skirts in different lengths. Separate patterns for skirt lining and waistband are also provided. The patterns come in sizes 2-16 in a CD that you have to print and tape. If you have purchased the book from another source and would like access to the digital link, Kristin has said in this post to contact her.

All patterns have step-by-step instructions with clear photos and diagrams. In additions to that, the book also has several chapters on essential sewing skills, like installing different types of zippers, stitch in the ditch, attaching a waistband and much more.

The geek in me is very happy to know that this book has its own lookbook app! Check out this Boundless Style app where you can mix and match the patterns to create your own outfit. It is so fun, a bit like playing with paper doll.

Boundless Style
Boundless Style

I’ve been playing with the app for sometime, planning a new dress for me. Unfortunately the smallest bodice size is still too big for me, so I decided to make a skirt instead.
Boundless Style

The Lydia skirt is a full, multipaneled skirt with two overlapping pleats at the front and back. I made the cocktail length skirt in size 2. Instead of using the waistband pattern, I decided to finish the waist using black twill tape. The skirt has A-shape skirt pattern for the lining. I like that the skirt and lining pattern is different, as it really reduces bulk and makes the skirt hang better.

Lydia skirt - Boundless Style Lydia skirt - Boundless Style

For some reason, I wasn’t really sure if I liked the skirt when it was just finished. Then I wore it today to do some errands, and I think I love it! Also, check out my pattern matching!

I really like this book and its concept! Next time I should try printing the patterns several percentage smaller so I can also use the bodice….
Lydia skirt - Boundless Style Lydia skirt - Boundless Style

Pattern is Lydia skirt – Boundless Style by Kristiann Boos of Victory Patterns, size 2.

Disclosure: this book was sent for free to review. However, the views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

T-shirt refashions

T-shirt for Fuwawa T-shirt for Fuwawa

Fuwawa usually wears clothes in colder months, so it is time for another dogwear fashion!

I seem to always get comments regarding her need for clothes, so yes, Fuwawa is a dog and she does need clothes. Although long, the fur of Chinese Crested Powder Puff are thin and they get cold easily. She is also quite old -nine years old- and not very healthy, so keeping her warm is very important. In cold season, she also needs hot water bottle, blanket, heated bed, and warm drinking water so she won’t get sick
T-shirt for Fuwawa T-shirt for Fuwawa
T-shirt for Fuwawa T-shirt for Fuwawa
Sidra has lots of outgrown T-shirts and they are such good resources for Fuwawa’s outfits. I use my favorite dogwear pattern by MillaMilla and made a couple of T-shirts for Fuwawa.

Here she is looking quite grumpy in her new T-shirts! She can’t wait to go back to her warm bed!

T-shirt for Fuwawa T-shirt for Fuwawa

PDF patterns by MillaMilla (Japanese store, Etsy store), size M.

Finlayson sweater

Finlayson sweater Finlayson sweater

I made this shirt as a last minute gift for my husband several hours before our Christmas’ Eve dinner. So glad to have my trustable sewing machine and fabric stash!

The pattern is Finlayson sweater by Thread Theory. I made variation 1 in size M. I really love how the squared neckline and the shawl collar have added such interesting details to an otherwise simple item. The fabric is double knit jersey in navy.

Finlayson sweater Finlayson sweater

My husband doesn’t like cuffs, so I eliminated both cuffs and hem band and lengthened the sleeves and body a bit. He really likes the simple zigzagged finishing on the long sleeved T-shirt that I made for him 8 years ago (he is still wearing it nowadays!), so I did a similar thing for this shirt. Since I have a serger now, I don’t have to use zigzag stitch anymore.

Finlayson sweater Finlayson sweater

I took these pictures this morning around the station while my husband was on the way to the office. Unfortunately Christmas is not a national holiday in Japan, so he’s spending the whole day in the office as usual.

Hope you have a wonderful Christmas!

Pattern is Finlayson sweater by Thread Theory, size M.

Sports bra and leggings (and a birthday)

Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

The knee-length yoga leggings that I made last July are one of the most-worn item that I’ve ever made. But since the weather got cold, I have gone back to wearing my old store-bought leggings. I suppose it is time to make another leggings!

I have been learning more about sewing workout wear through Sew and Draft Your Own Personal 7 Piece Workout Wear Collection course that was sent to me by Burdastyle. In one of the lessons, Meg Healy (the instructor) teaches how to develop the basic leggings sloper pattern into a pair of leggings with crotch gusset.

The gusset is drafted in a very simple manner, basically it is consisted of two pairs of pieces from the front and back crotch pattern. For my next pair, I want to draft the gusset in one piece instead of four pieces like this one. On the inside, the gusset has a piece of jersey lining to make it more comfortable.

Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

The waistband is drafted wide with folded edge on top. There is no additional elastic in the waist band so it is very comfortable. I like wide waistband like this that reaches to my belly button. The crotch and waistband seams are topstitched with decorative stitches that look like flatlock. I read about this technique on Tasia’s post in Sewaholic blog.
Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

Speaking of Tasia from Sewaholic, I bought her Dunbar top pattern to make a sports bra! I use the same black spandex fabric as my leggings, carrot red spandex for the contrast, and store-bought foldover elastic.

“The Dunbar Top or Sports Bra is fully lined, with a powernet shelf bra that includes pockets for optional padding or removeable bra cups. Racerback styling and contrast seaming gives it a cool modern look. Choose high-impact contrast like black and white, or opt for tone-on-tone fabrics for a subtler look. Edges are bound with fabric binding strips. View A is a mid-hip length tank top with a shelf bra lining. View B is a sports bra with elastic along the lower edge.”

Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

My lining is powernet in orange-red color that is actually quite thin, so I added another layer of stronger black powernet between the layers. The bra cups have openings on the side for removable bra cups.

I really suggest to make a muslin if you are interested in making this bra. The bra is quite short from top to bottom. I cut size 2 and had to add 2 cm on the bottom end of each piece. The recommended elastic length for the underband is way too long for me. I measure my elastic by putting it around myself snugly and cut the desired length. When attaching the binding, I made sure to stretch the elastic binding slightly so it will fit snugly when the bra is being worn.

Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

I usually wear encapsulation sports bra with separate cups and underwire like this Panache sports bra and not the compression type like the Dunbar. The feeling is a bit different, it is much lighter. I like this one better! The bra is very comfortable, I think I want to use this pattern to make another bra in jersey fabric without the shelf bra just for lounging at home.
Sports bra and leggings Sports bra and leggings

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Selamat ulang tahun Mama / HAPPY

Unrelated to the sportswear, today is my 44th birthday! I’m not sure how I feel about being 44, sometimes I feel like I’m still not an adult yet.

Here is a pot of succulents that Sidra bought for me. He bought it at the market near our house, but on the way home the pot got turned over. He didn’t have the chance to fix it because he had to hide it rightaway when he got home. I think it is a very endearing story.

The cards are from my husband and Sidra. My husband wrote ‘Happy birthday Mama’ in Indonesian, and the little writing around it is something like ‘together forever’. Sidra drew me from a photo. He said that the mouth part is very difficult, so he just gave me a wide grin instead.

I feel very lucky to have these two sweet men in my life at this moment!

Sports bra pattern is Sewaholic Dunbar top (PDF), size 2.
Leggings pattern is  developed from Burdastyle knit leggings sloper (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.

Disclosure: The leggings sloper pattern is included in Sew and Draft Your Own Personal 7 Piece Workout Wear Collection course sent to me for free by Burdastyle.

Review: A Sewist’s Notebook

110 Creations: A Sewist

Sometimes you need to look back to a project and check what alterations that you have made or what kind of fabrics that you have used. But after years of sewing and accumulating hundreds of projects, it is not always easy to keep track of all of those projects.

This is where Beth Byrge from 110 Creations came in with her idea of a special notebook designed especially with what a sewist’s need in mind. As a sewist herself, Beth understands that the work of keeping track of all the projects and inspirations can be quite messy. This notebook offers one way to organize all those sewing-related lists in one place.

110 Creations: A Sewist

A Sewist’s Notebook

Contents:

  1. How to use this book
  2. Sample page
  3. Project list
  4. Measurement chart
  5. Project pages
  6. Pattern catalogue
  7. Wish list
  8. Needle change record
  9. Notes
  10. Acknowledgement

The notebook starts with a short explanation on how to use the book and a sample page. Then you get 110 pages of project pages, 90 of them with figure drawing and the last 20 pages with no figure drawing for non-clothing or kids’ clothes project.

110 Creations: A Sewist 110 Creations: A Sewist

In each project page, you can take notes of pattern, fabric, interfacing, notions, accents, planning notes, sizing & alterations, seams & finishes, hem, and notes for next time. That’s about all the notes that you can take for a project!

The pattern catalogue is divided by the type of clothing like tops, pants, skirts, dresses, outerwear, children’s, and bags. In this section, you can take notes of the pattern company, whether the pattern has been cut ot not, and the price of the pattern.

And for all the things that you wished to have, there is the Wish list! This section is divided into fabric, patterns, notions, and tools.

110 Creations: A Sewist 110 Creations: A Sewist

110 Creations: A Sewist

Needle change record

I think that the figure drawing in the project pages has quite a thick lines, which makes it rather difficult to draw over. Also, I think it is important to have another figure drawing but from the backside.

It would be great too if the section of the pages can be bought separately so you can expand the book. I change my needle after each project so I don’t really need to record my needle change time. But other people will find this section very useful.

This notebook is a great tool if you like to keep a detailed track of all your sewing projects manually. Personally I prefer to keep my notes in digital form, and that is actually my purpose of starting this blog in the first place. It would be great if there is something like this notebook but in digital version so I can use the search button to find anything.

You can buy the book here for $14.99. Beth also has a similar notebook for children’s clothes with child-sized figure drawing and check out this cute, smaller version of A Sewist’s notebook!

How do you keep track of your projects?

Book review: A Sewist’s Notebook by Beth Byrge

Disclosure: this notebook was sent for free to review. However, the views and opinions expressed are purely my own.

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