If you like bra making, you have probably heard about Maya bra by Ana Filimon. It’s a 3 piece cup bra pattern, available in wide range of sizes, and it is free!
This pattern uses different method for finding the bra size. It needs two measurements: underbust size and wire size. With these two measurements, the bra size can be found in the available size chart in her site. I found that my size is 30D, the same as my usual size for most bra patterns.
Ana has put up several pages of very detailed sewing instructions, although it is still not finished. I have made several bras before, so I didn’t use her instructions.
I made my Maya bra with baby blue stretch lace, foam padding, and white notions. Alterations that I made for this bra:
- added height on center front and side seam to accommodate the longer wire
- narrowed the centre piece because I have very little space between breasts
- very narrow cradle (about the width of the channeling under the cups)
- changed the center front to gothic arch
- added back strap extension
The top of the foam padding is finished with foldover elastic, so are the top of side and band. I also like to put a strip of channeling on the side seam for added support.
The second set is made with Classic bra pattern by Pin-Up Girls, a two piece . This is the bra pattern that I used for my first ever handmade bra! I have used this bra so many times and made countless alterations to it. This time, I started over from scratch and ditched all the alterations that I have made.
Here you can see the upside down V-shaped of the gothic arc where the elastic is overlapped. This is my favorite treatment of the center front!
This bra is made with stretch lace, tricot, and notions in all white. Alterations that I made is pretty similar to the baby blue bra. In fact, basically the cradle and band is similar and only the cups are different. The upper cup has added front strap extension. The transparent cups look pretty delicate but actually the tricot underneath the lace is pretty strong and stable.
As usual, a couple of small B/W photos of the bras on me. I think that the Maya bra gives a very rounded shape while the Pin-Up Girls has a more natural shape. I love both shapes!
To complete the set, I made a couple of panties with transparent mesh fabric and foldover fabric. I have used all the lace edges on the bra so there’s nothing left for the panties. It is okay though, because the panties can be easily mixed and matched with other bra.
- Baby blue bra pattern is Maya bra (free PDF), size 30D.
- White lace bra pattern is Pin Up Girls Classic bra, size 30D.
- Panties pattern is Merckwaerdigh low rider panty (PDF), size S.