Baby blue and white lace set

Baby blue set White lace set
If you like bra making, you have probably heard about Maya bra by Ana Filimon. It’s a 3 piece cup bra pattern, available in wide range of sizes, and it is free!

This pattern uses different method for finding the bra size. It needs two measurements: underbust size and wire size. With these two measurements, the bra size can be found in the available size chart in her site. I found that my size is 30D, the same as my usual size for most bra patterns.
Baby blue set Baby blue set

Ana has put up several pages of very detailed sewing instructions, although it is still not finished. I have made several bras before, so I didn’t use her instructions.

I made my Maya bra with baby blue stretch lace, foam padding, and white notions. Alterations that I made for this bra:

  • added height on center front and side seam to accommodate the longer wire
  • narrowed the centre piece because I have very little space between breasts
  • very narrow cradle (about the width of the channeling under the cups)
  • changed the center front to gothic arch
  • added back strap extension

Baby blue set Baby blue set

The top of the foam padding is finished with foldover elastic, so are the top of side and band. I also like to put a strip of channeling on the side seam for added support.
White lace set White lace set

The second set is made with Classic bra pattern by Pin-Up Girls, a two piece . This is the bra pattern that I used for my first ever handmade bra! I have used this bra so many times and made countless alterations to it. This time, I started over from scratch and ditched all the alterations that I have made.
White lace set White lace set

Here you can see the upside down V-shaped of the gothic arc where the elastic is overlapped. This is my favorite treatment of the center front!

This bra is made with stretch lace, tricot, and notions in all white. Alterations that I made is pretty similar to the baby blue bra. In fact, basically the cradle and band is similar and only the cups are different. The upper cup has added front strap extension. The transparent cups look pretty delicate but actually the tricot underneath the lace is pretty strong and stable.

babybluefront whitelacefront

As usual, a couple of small B/W photos of the bras on me. I think that the Maya bra gives a very rounded shape while the Pin-Up Girls has a more natural shape. I love both shapes!
Mesh panties Mesh panties
To complete the set, I made a couple of panties with transparent mesh fabric and foldover fabric. I have used all the lace edges on the bra so there’s nothing left for the panties. It is okay though, because the panties can be easily mixed and matched with other bra.



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  • Elena Knits

    Beautiful sets, as always! Thank you for sharing the pattern from Maya. It may be what I was looking for 🙂

  • Trudy

    Beautiful! Like a previous commenter, I was inspired by your earlier bra projects to begin making my own. And I love seeing your progression. I am curious about the Pin Up Girls bra above: did you raise the bridge at center front? If so, by how much and why? I’m curious to know. As the bridge on the Pin UP Girls Classic (pink pattern) already uses long wires, it’s interesting to me if you increased the bridge height. I’m thinking of raising it about 5/8″ for myself, but I think it will peek out when I wear V neck tees. Your PUG bra resembles the “Heather” bra in her Craftsy class.

    • Thank you!
      The center front and side seam are raised each about 7 mm because the wire I use is quite long, even longer than the usual round wire. I measure the wire that I’m going to use and alter the pattern to match.
      Here is a picture of the alteration. The original is in grey. Hope that helps!

      • Trudy

        Good idea to measure the wire you intend to use then adjust accordingly. Thanx for sending the sketch of your pattern corrections. That’s helpful to see. And the gothic arch detail you used gives very pretty results. Essentially it appears that after you make your changes for a longer wire, your bra length at center front is about the same length as the original pattern, maybe a bit shorter. I think the gothic arch detail keeps the CF from not becoming too long. I will do the same! Thank you again.

  • So much loveliness. They’re both gorgeous! The fold-over binding on the knickers patterns is such a wonderfully clean finish.

  • Texan


  • Oh, these are so beautiful! I’m trying to decide which pattern to use for my first bra…the Maya or the Shelley bra. I will probably buy the Shelley bra pattern because I really want to sew one without wires.

  • Ana Filimon

    Wow, Novita, I can’t stop looking at your bras! They are gorgeous! Thank you so much for trying out my Maya pattern. You should know, before I ever started sewing lingerie or even drafting lingerie patterns, your lingerie sets were my inspiration and encouragement!

    • Ana, thank you so much for making this pattern free! It is such a generous gesture that you are providing a way for people to try making an underwired bra. It is so great that we can inspire and encourage each other in this sewing world 🙂

  • beautiful sets. I really need to make a bra. you inspired me

    • I’m sure you will make beautiful bras! You already have the skill and good taste! 🙂

  • sallieforrer

    These are both so beautiful! I love how you combine fabrics for your bras! I recently tried on my Pin up girls classic bra again that I made using one of their kits a while back. I wasn’t happy with the fit – it really flattens my upper chest, making any kind of cleavage non-existant, and I’m not sure what alterations I should make to change that! I wish I had the patience to work out the fit like you do because your handmade lingerie wardrobe is seriously inspiring!!

    • Thank you! I think finding the best fitting is the most time-consuming part in bra-making. even now I’m still not sure if I have found the best fit yet. After every project I always wonder ‘Oh I should have done it this way or that way etc….’

  • I find your combinations really inspiring! My bra today required me to trim my band elastic under the cups and I was nervous about that. Thanks for showing that your pictures. I don’t feel so much trepidation , now.

    • Don’t worry about trimming the elastic! I mark the elastic with washable marker before trimming. Usually I trim gradually because I don’t want to be too aggressive on the first trimming 🙂

  • Jeanette

    They are beautiful! Where did you get stable tricot from?

    • Thank you! I bought them locally in Okadaya, Shinjuku.