A reader commented on my post ‘Three meters of black linen’ , asking about how I made the side slant pockets for my son’s pants. So this is a tutorial on how I made them. You can also use this method for adult’s clothing by simply changing the dimensions.
Making the pockets pattern
- Trace the front part of the pattern.
- Draw the slanted opening line of the pocket. Make sure that it is big enough for the hand of the wearer.
- My example here is for kid’s pants with separate waistband. If the pants has no separate waistband (i.e: pyjama pants with elastic or drawstring), the width of the elastic/drawstring area should be added to the side length of the pocket.
- The pocket is 6 cm at the top and 10 cm on the side. You might need to make it bigger for adult’s size.
- You can also make a curved line instead of straight line.
Draw the pocket lining
Trace pattern pieces
- Mark the placement of pocket line on the pocket pouch.
- Trace all the pattern pieces on separate pattern paper and add seam allowances to the pieces.
- You will have three pieces: front pant piece, pocket lining, and pocket pouch.
Sewing the pockets
- Use your pattern to cut fabric.
- You can use different fabric for the pocket lining for added detail and/or to prevent bulkiness if your fabric is a bit thick.
- Since the slant pocket lines are not cut on fabric grain, I suggest to use fusible interfacing stay along the slanted lines to prevent stretching.
- Place pocket lining on front pant piece, right sides together.
- Sew along the slanted line (or curved, if your pocket is curved).
- Turn the pocket and press the edge. If your lines are curved, clip the seam allowance before turning the pocket.
- Topstitch the edge of pocket to keep the lining from ‘rolling’ outside. I usually use longer stitch length to do topstitching.
- You can also make topstitching with thicker or different colour thread for added visual interest.
- Take your pocket pouch piece and place it on the pocket area, matching the placement marks.
- Pin the edge of pocket and sew along the edge.
- Finish the raw edge with your choice of finishing. You can use a serger, but I usually just use zigzag stitches.
- Baste the top and the sides of pocket to the front pant piece.
- You have a pair of front pieces with side slant pocket! Finish your pants as usual.
I hope my tutorial is useful! (^_^)/