A reader commented on my post ‘Three meters of black linen’ , asking about how I made the side slant pockets for my son’s pants. So this is a tutorial on how I made them. You can also use this method for adult’s clothing by simply changing the dimensions.

Making the pockets pattern

• Trace the front part of the pattern.
• Draw the slanted opening line of the pocket. Make sure that it is big enough for the hand of the wearer.
• My example here is for kid’s pants with separate waistband. If the pants has no separate  waistband (i.e: pyjama pants with elastic or drawstring), the width of the elastic/drawstring area should be added to the side length of the pocket.
• The pocket is 6 cm at the top and 10 cm on the side. You might need to make it bigger for adult’s size.
• You can also make a curved line instead of straight line.

Draw the pocket lining

Trace pattern pieces

• Mark the placement of pocket line on the pocket pouch.
• Trace all the pattern pieces on separate pattern paper and add seam allowances to the pieces.
• You will have three pieces: front pant piece, pocket lining, and pocket pouch.

Sewing the pockets

• Use your pattern to cut fabric.
• You can use different fabric for the pocket lining for added detail and/or to prevent bulkiness if your fabric is a bit thick.
• Since the slant pocket lines are not cut on fabric grain, I suggest to use fusible interfacing stay along the slanted lines to prevent stretching.

• Place pocket lining on front pant piece, right sides together.
• Sew along the slanted line (or curved, if your pocket is curved).

• Turn the pocket and press the edge. If your lines are curved, clip the seam allowance before turning the pocket.

• Topstitch the edge of pocket to keep the lining from ‘rolling’ outside. I usually use longer stitch length to do topstitching.
• You can also make topstitching with thicker or different colour thread for added visual interest.

• Take your pocket pouch piece and place it on the pocket area, matching the placement marks.
• Pin the edge of pocket and sew along the edge.

• Finish the raw edge with your choice of finishing. You can use a serger, but I usually just use zigzag stitches.

• Baste the top and the sides of pocket to the front pant piece.

• You have a pair of front pieces with side slant pocket! Finish your pants as usual.

I hope my tutorial is useful! (^_^)/