Have you seen the Spring/Summer 2017 collection: The Playground, from Named Clothing? It is inspired by the practicality and simplicity of childrenwear. I’m all about practical and comfort so I was very excited about this collection.
It is launched two days ago and I immediately picked the simplest pattern to make, The Ninni culottes. It is a pattern for wide-legged cullotes with elastic waistband and in-seam side pockets. I made it in very stable black jersey.
To make my life easier, I keep a Google spreadheet for all alterations that I have to made for each pattern. For Named patterns, I use size 34 with these alterations: shortening 2 cm on the hipline, 5 cm above knee, and 5 cm below knee, at total 12 cm. Twelve centimetres might sound a lot, but it has worked very well for me. Named patterns are drafted for height 172 cm while my height is 150 cm.
I’m very happy with the result! My alterations has worked quite well, as you can see the length of the culottes is at the same proportion as the original pattern. These culottes are very basic, it means that it will have lots of wear in the future!
Linden sequin T-shirt
Now for the not-so-basic T-shirt, I used knit sequin fabric for the bodice and the leftover black jersey for the sleeves and neck binding. The pattern is Linden sweatshirt by Grainline studio that has became one of my favorite.
I use overlocker for all the seams except for finishing the sleeve and bodice hem. The sequin on the fabric is very soft and can be cut easily, so they didn’t need to be removed from the seamlines.
I like how the sequins are a bit muted and not glaringly reflecting lights all over the place. It is quite a nice detail to an otherwise very simple black T-shirt!
I’ve been wearing my wool coat that I made a couple of years ago everyday this winter. It’s a really great coat but I got a bit bored of it, so a simple long cardigan seem to be a perfect alternative.
The pattern is Esme maxi cardigan by Named patterns. I made size 34 with lots of shortening alteration, 2 cm above the waist and 10 cm below the waist. FYI Named patterns are drafted for height 172 cm, that is why I have to do lots of shortenings for my 150 cm height.
The fabric is grey sweatshirt fleece with brushed side in white. It’s medium weight with low stretch, perfect for this pattern. Because of the fabric thickness, I made one side of the pocket from jersey to minimize the bulk. I love these big pockets, it is essential in cold weather so I can put my freezing hands.
The cardigan looks good without button, but I decided to add closure so it can be closed in cold days or when bike riding. The closure is three large plastic snap on button in transparent white that really blend with the color of the fabric.
I’ve seen some people shortened the cardigan to hip length that also looks good but this time I wanted to see how I look in maxi cardigan. I must say that the cardigan looks a bit like bathrobe but it’s so comfortable so I don’t care!
The second thing that I made is a simple white sweatshirt. I don’t have any white clothes before because I’m afraid I will get it stained in the first wear. Then my husband got himself a white sweatshirt and I thought it looked good so I wanted to make one.
The pattern is Linden sweatshirt pattern by Grainline studio. I’ve made this pattern a couple years ago and was very pleased with the result. The alteration is the same as the first one that I made, with the bodice shortened 2.5 cm and the sleeves shortened 4 cm.
The fabric is white french terry, a bit thick and not very stretchy. You can see the loops on the wrong side of the fabric.
It turned out that I like the result so much that I wear the sweatshirt almost everyday! So far I managed to keep it stain-free so it’s really great. And here I am with my new ensemble for cold days!
In my previous post about my Kielo wrap dress, I mentioned that I wasn’t quite happy with my fabric choice. So here is my second Kielo wrap dress! The fabric is quite interesting, it is actually two separate layers of thin jersey connected together around each dots.
Not much to say about alteration nor construction. The only difference that I made for this dress is finishing the armhole and necklines with knit band instead of bias binding.
I’m quite happy with this version! The dress is very comfortable and flattering.
Pattern is Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%
This is the second dress that I made from the fabrics that I bought in Indonesia. The beautiful print and color combination caught my eyes immediately. The price is also a bargain at about USD5/meter.
The fabric is stretch polyester and quite slinky. I knew that I wanted to make a dress with it, preferably with as little seamlines as possible so the beautiful print wouldn’t be cut. So I was quite happy when I stumbled upon Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns, a simple maxi dress with an interesting shape. It has diamond shape with two waist ties and back vent. The dress has a couple of sleeve dart on the front and a couple of back darts.
Named patterns are designed for the height of 172 cm / 5’8″, which is quite far from 150 cm / 4’11” that is my height. I used the same way that I usually do for Burdastyle patterns, printing the pattern at 92% and cut size 38. I found that this is the best way to make the pattern petite for me. Further alteration were shortening the bodice about 1 cm and the skirt about 5 cm. Everything is about making the pattern shorter!
Eventually all the alterations worked quite well. The dress is now at the right proportion to my body. Sewing process was quite simple. The most lengthy process was probably making the ties since it has to be lightly interfaced and turned out. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding.
I find that the dress can be worn in several ways. With the ties wrapped around for a tighter fit or loosely tied for a looser fit. You can even knot the ties at the front or the back for a different look. A very versatile dress.
One thing that I don’t really like about the dress has nothing to do with the pattern at all. Since the fabric is polyester, it turned out to be not the perfect choice for summer. In the hottest days, the fabric emanates some sort of ‘burnt polyester smell’ if you know what I mean. It is also quite transparent so I have to wear slip dress underneath, which cancels the purpose of a loose summer dress. But it sure does look good!
I’m still very intrigued with the pattern, so hopefully I will find another nice fabric for my second Kielo!
Pattern is Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%
Wyome boyfriend jeans
More jeans! After finished making my husband’s jeans, I felt a weird craving to make more jeans. I even had a dream where I made a super neat topstitching on the waistband, probably because I thought about them a lot. I guess I really love making jeans.
At this point there are two things that I can do. One is to decide that I have got too obsessed and should be looking for something else to do, and the other one is to just surrender and make another pair of jeans. Actually I’ve chosen option no. 1, until last weekend when I went to a store called Village Vanguard in Shibuya.
Despite claiming to be ‘an exciting bookstore’, Village Vanguard is a kitsch store that focuses on western pop culture. It is full of interesting knick-knacks like holga and polaroid cameras, T-shirts with interesting prints, clocks, pillowcases, basically anything that you don’t need but might want to have.
I went to the store to look around as usual when I noticed a stack of folded fabrics in a dark corner. Lo and behold! They were selvedge and non-selvedge denim fabrics, each fabric was cut enough to make a pair of jeans. This must be a sign from the jeans god.
I was going for another selvedge denim when I noticed this light blue denim and immediately had a vision of boyfriend jeans. And that was a rather unnecessary long story of how I justified myself for making another jeans.
The pattern is Wyome boyfriend jeans by Named patterns. This is a pattern for loose fitting five pocket jeans with low waist, revealed button closure and narrowed legs. I spent sometime looking for versions made by other sewer and I think most of them looked a bit too fitted for my vision of boyfriend jeans. So I decided to cut size 36 -one size bigger than my size- for a more ‘boyfriend’ effect.
My alterations are mostly shortening everything. The rise is shortened 1 cm and the legs are shortened 15 cm in three places. I also widen the legs about 2 cm around the calves as I often had pants stuck around there. I suppose I have big calves.
I have made several jeans before so I just used my usual way of sewing jeans instead of reading the instructions. The fabric is non-stretch denim, about 12 oz in weight, and sursprisingly very easy to sew. My waistband topstitching turned out quite neat just like in my dream!
The rivets are so beautiful that I can’t stop looking at them. They are from Citron Jeans, a Japanese store where I bought selvedge denim for my husband. The row of exposed buttons is my favorite part! These buttons are from Okadaya in Shinjuku.
The denim was still quite a bit stiff but they will get more comfortable with each wear (or so I’ve heard). I’m not quite used to wearing stiff fabric so I tried to distress the fabric. I put a small wallet to the back pocket and sandpapering from the outside.
Then I learned that it is better if you distress the fabric before topstitching. After witnessing several broken threads in my delightful topstitching, I decided to stop the distressing and just let nature run its course. I do like the hole in the back pocket though!
Pattern is Wyome jeans from Named patterns (PDF), size 36.