Lately I feel more comfortable wearing thin bralettes than bra with underwire or foam lining. Maybe because it is summer and everything is just too hot. Then I noticed that Evie la Luve has just launched some new patterns, one of them is this Willow bra.
The pattern package includes 5 different looks, including wraparound style and longline style, with sizing from XXS to XXL. Usually I prefer to use pattern with band and cup sizing but I have had success with Evie la Luve’s panties patterns so I’d like to give this a try.
This is a very good pattern package with complete tutorials for each style with aesthetically pleasing pictures and clear explanation. One thing that I like about Evie la Luve’s pattern is that she always gives exact suggested length for the elastic instead of just ‘stretch slightly while sewing’.
I like reading tutorials from each pattern maker as it shows how they organize their thoughts and put them into words. Sometimes the way a tutorial is presented can rub me off the wrong way that it keeps me from working with the pattern, I really like how Evie la Luve presents her tutorials though.
Having said that, I didn’t really follow the tutorial for this pattern… but it’s because I already have my own flow of works. The pattern has 1 cm seam allowance that I trimmed into my usual 0.6 cm seam allowance. I also didn’t line the fabric as suggested. The seamlines are simply serged and topstitch to one side.
The fabric is actually from a pair of leggings that I made a couple of years ago but rarely wear. It’s lycra fabric with under the sea themed digital print.
I was very happy with the result so I wanted to make a matching panties. This time I use the bottom part of Mimi bikini pattern. As you can see, this is a swimwear pattern so I didn’t follow the tutorial either. But if you want to make a bikini for swimming, the tutorial for this pattern is really great.
Actually I made the black one first as a muslin. I wore it and liked it a lot that I continued making the second one. I can see more of this bralette in the future as it is so simple and quick to sew!
And here’s how they fit on my body. My dummy has very small waist, that is why the band on the panties look wrinkled. On me, the fit is better.
Merckwaerdigh wings and Harriet bra
Recently Amy from Cloth Habit has just released her newest pattern, the Harriet bra. You’re probably already familiar with her previous pattern, the Watson bra, that is very popular.
The Harriet bra is an underwired bra with balconette neckline and 3 piece cup seam. The sizes range is pretty great, from 28A-42H. I think this is the widest size range available in one bra pattern that I have ever encountered. Amy wrote more about Harriet bra in her introduction post here.
The Harriet bra has similar seamlines as one of Merckwaerdigh pattern, Wings. This PDF pattern is also listed as BHST2 in the printed version. I have made BHST2 several times and always like the result, so I was curious to see how the Harriet bra is compared to Merckwaerdigh Wings.
I use my usual size for Merckwaerdigh, 30E, that I got by using size 36B and shortening the band 6 cm. While for the Harriet bra, I followed the measuring instructions and got 28DD as a result. However, my finished bra was a bit too tight so I decided to make a new one in size 30D, bigger band size with the same cup volume as 28DD.
Frame comparison of Merckwaerdigh Wings and Harriet 30D
The frame comparison is very interesting! You can see how the Harriet bra has much narrower wire line compared to Merckwaerdigh. As I’ve always been happy with my result with Merckwaerdigh patterns, I got slightly worried that the Harriet bra might not be for me.
On my dummy, the cup seamlines on both bras are quite similar. I made the Merckwaerdigh Wings with stable fabric and stretch lace upper cup, while the Harriet bra is made with stable lace with only mechanical stretch. I would say that the stretch factor on both bras are quite similar. Both bras are unlined and use the same wire. The alteration for both is narrowing the center gore because I have small space between breasts. I changed the back of the Merckwaerdigh Wings to U-shaped back similar to the Harriet.
And here is how the fit on my body, surprisingly quite different! The straps on the Merckwaerdigh wings are quite far apart. The cup seamlines look almost horizontal. The neckline is flatter compared to Harriet bra. The breast shapes are more relaxed and natural.
The straps on the Harriet bra are closer together. As a result you can see the cup seamlines more clearly. The cup seamlines are more diagonal and the neckline has more of a V shape. The narrower wire line push the breast more to the center, creating a ‘perkier’ look.
The Merckwaerdigh Wings is great to wear with tops or dress that has wide neckline, but for everyday bra I prefer the Harriet. In fact, I’m very, very happy with the Harriet bra. Usually I have to do several alterations to bra pattern, shortening the band, creating the U-shaped back, moving the straps closer etc. This time I only did the center gore alteration and everything else fit perfectly! I will be making more of this bra!
Here’s another Merckwaerdigh BHS10 view C that I’ve made several times! The lace is stretch lace in neon pink that is very hard to photograph. I’ve used similar lace in different color to make a couple of set here.
As usual, the cups are lined with non-stretch lining and the band is lined with powernet. I use foldover elastic to finish the neckline and underarms and wide elastic for the band.
The panties is Bunzies by Stitch Upon A Time, a very versatile pattern with three leg cuts (full coverage, booty and super booty) high and low rises, ruched back options, and elastic and knit band finishing. So many options!
I cut size XS in low rise super booty option and I should say that the result is great! On my body, the super booty is a bit more revealing than in the mannequin. Sorry for not able to show it though!
Another fun thing that I made is this harness bralette made entirely from bra straps. I’ve seen this type of clothing and got curious about them.
The direction is Scarlett strap bralette (PDF) by Evie La Luve. It is relatively easy to make, basically you just sew several length of straps around several rings. I added sliders to the neck strap and body strap so it will be easier to get in it. When not being worn, this harness looks like a crumpled straps and you need to think for a while before getting into it.
Of course it doesn’t offer any support at all and I don’t think it is the intention of this item. The harness is something that you wear on your body like you wear a necklace or bracelet, some kind of body accessory.
I find that it looks quite attractive worn over my neon pink bralette and I wonder how else I can wear this harness. Do you have a harness or have you ever made one? How do you usually wear it?
First post in 2017! I have so many finished sewing items that haven’t been posted yet. I’m trying to work through them though, taking pictures and posting eventually.
I found this red stretch lace in a small fabric store in my neighborhood. It is sort of an outlet store that sells out of print and end of rolls fabric so the collections changed all the time. Recently they had new batches of colorful stretch lace sold in 2 m cut length. I’m probably the only one in my neighborhood who is interested in all those stretch lace so prepare to see more colorful stretch lace lingerie!
The bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh balcony underwired bra in size 30 E. To get this size I used cup size 36B and shortened the band 6 cm on each side (12 cm total). I sewed the bra without alterations, except for using the lace edge on the bridge. The cups and bridge are lined with non-stretch lining while the band is lined with powernet.
I found that I always have good fit with Merckwaerdigh bra patterns, especially the underwired ones. They usually have rounded cups and narrow space between the breast which suit my shape very well.
For the second bra I wanted to try Madalynne Simplicity 8228 view A, the halter bra. Based on the measuring instructions, I cut size 32DD. The whole bra is lined with power net.
I read that lots of people find the straps on this pattern a bit too short, so I was amused to find that they are too long on my body! Maybe because I am petite. The band is also too big around my body but it was easily shortened.
I’m not really sure about the bra though. It is very pretty but not very practical for daily use, at least for me. I also can’t get over the feeling of the lacey straps behind my neck all the time. There is no problem with the fit though!
The panties are Bella lace panties that I have made before. This is one of my favorite panties pattern, so easy to make with beautiful result. Please note that these panties are very low-waisted, so you can just add some height if you don’t like that.
Here is the fit on both bra on me. Both look pretty good!
I stumbled upon Evie la Luve‘s patterns when I was browsing my IG feed the other day. As I’m always interested in trying out patterns, I got myself a couple of panties patterns, the Esme and Bella panties in this pattern bundle. You can also buy them separately.
The Esme panties have cross over design, while the Bella panties are made with stretch lace allover. Both panties have very low waistline, so you might have to pay attention with this. I happen to love low waistline, and usually lower every panties pattern so these patterns are perfect for me.
Both patterns come with instructions that is very clear with step by step pictures.
One thing that I like about using stretch lace for panties is that usually you don’t need to use lots of elastics so they can be sewed up pretty quickly. That is the case with these panties, they only need some length of foldover elastic to finish the waistline.
I got the stretch lace locally in my neighbourhood in Tokyo. It is very pretty with white thread around the edges and blue accents.
I don’t talk much about the bra because I have made this pattern several times. It is my favorite Merckwaerdigh BHS10. And now I think I have found new favourite for lace panties pattern!
Panties pattern are Esme and Bella panties (PDF) by Evie la Luve.
Bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 size 30E.
These three bras are made with the same pattern: Merckwaerdigh BHS 10. This pattern has now become my favourite! Here you can see how the same pattern made with different fabric can look quite different.
This one is made with grey jersey and has a racerback with no closure.
You can see from the photo that it is not very ‘lifting’. This is because the outer layer and lining are both stretch jersey. This is my sleeping bra though, so I like that it is not restricting and the cotton jersey is quite comfortable.
Stretch lace bra
The second one is made with stretch lace fabric and lined with transparent tricot in beige. Similar to my white soft bra, I use clear elastic on the neckline and along the lace edge of the strap.
The back band is soft powernet in double layer. The outer layer is beige and the inner layer is yellow. From the outside, the beige band has a hint of yellow which complement the soft yellow stretch lace.
Foam lined bra
This one has foam lining on the whole front part and finished with foldover elastic allover. The back band is strong powernet with 3 hook and eye closure. I use this bra as a sports bra. My sport is yoga though, so it doesn’t really need strong impact reduction bra.
The neon yellow fabric is wicking fabric from a sports T-shirt. I bought the T-shirt in size L and still have enough leftover for another bra and panties. The foam lining is from Makebra that I really like. I think the quality of their foam lining is the best that I’ve ever found.
For my size (30E), I use cup size 36B and shortened the back quite a lot. If you do this kind of alteration, special attention is needed to the placement of the straps on the back. I forgot to do this on my previous bra, and as a result the straps on the back are quite far apart.
Because they have no underwires, these bras are very light. The powerbar on each side of the cups gives quite a flattering shape. I’m very happy with this pattern!
Bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 size 30E.
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