Taking picture of my new bra
It seems that nowadays I sew more lingerie than ordinary clothes. Sewing lingerie is so addictive. The pieces are small so it doesn’t take too much space, but the number of variations and alterations that can be made are endless. Wearing a pretty set of lingerie always makes me happy, as if I’m having a beautiful secret.
Here is the most popular Watson bra. I’m sure you have seen this pattern around the blogosphere and maybe have made one for yourself! It is indeed a beautiful pattern with very clear instructions. I used white stretch lace because I want a white bra that can be easily matched with other panties.
The cups are lined with white powernet, while the bridge is lined with non-stretch lining. I made the longline version in size 30D, shortening the height of the band a bit because I’m short-waisted.
I was very satisfied with the fit and how pretty it looks. However, after wearing it for sometime I found that the bottom band keep flipping up. I’m not sure what causes this, probably because I’m short-waisted? To fix this problem, I stitched underwire casing on the sides and center front of the bra, and inserted rigilene plastic boning inside. Problem is fixed, no more rolling up! I feel that the boning also makes the bra keeps its shape better.
The panties are made with Lace Tanga pattern by Sew Fast on Burdastyle. I have made this pattern several years ago for this red lace set. It’s free, very easy to sew, and doesn’t require any elastics.
The second set is made using Jalie patterns. I just found out that Jalie patterns are also available in PDF. How did I not know this?? Anyway I quickly went ahead to buy several patterns.
The bra pattern is Jalie 3131, it is a bra and camisole patterns in 17 sizes. In Jalie patterns, you pick the band pattern according to the underbust size and the cups pattern according to the full bust size. My underbust falls to size Q, and coincidentally my full bust is also size Q.
The panties pattern is Jalie 3242, it includes 6 underwear patterns for men, women, and children in 29 sizes. you can make underwear for the whole big family just using this one pattern. I also made size Q for this underwear, but it feels a bit too snug. So next time I will make size R.
The instructions for both patterns are very good with diagrams and step by step instructions. You can even watch this video on how to sew the Jalie bra. I also like that Jalie patterns have suggested elastic length for every part that needs it. The bra cups and bridge are lined with powernet and all the seams inside are enclosed between the fabric and the lining.
Here is the fit of the Watson bra (size 30D) and Jalie 3131 (size Q) on me. My underbust is 26.5″ and full bust is 31.5″.
I really don’t like how the cups of Jalie bra seem to smush my breast. The cups on the Watson bra gives a much better shape compared to Jalie’s. Having said that, the Jalie bra is surprisingly very comfortable! I wore it reluctantly (because I hate the shape), but at the end of the day I went to sleep in it. The next day I even made another one with the leftover fabric!
Looking at the pictures of the Jalie bra, I probably need to make one cup size bigger although I have used the size according to measurements. I also might need a smaller band because I wear this one already in the tightest hook. However I’m not really sure if I want to experiment with this bra anymore because of its shape. But it is comfortable! But the shape! That’s the kind of dilemma that I face in daily life….
More Orange Lingerie pattern! This time it is the Marlborough bra, an underwired bra pattern with power bars on each side of the cups.
I use the bra kit that Jenny gifted me when she visited Tokyo sometime ago. Yes it is 8 months that this kit had been sitting in my stash….
I cut the same size as my Boylston bra without making any muslin, assuming that everything would go as smoothly well as before. Of course I was wrong!
This bra is designed for rigid lace and fabric with no to very little stretch on the front part, and the kit has perfectly reflected that. But as a result, the bra feels quite restricting to me. The cups fit relatively well and I can hook the band without any problem, but the lack of stretch on the front part is too much for me.
I think this bra might be better for the more well-endowed ladies who need really strong support. I need the movement and comfortability of stretch fabric. Smaller people also tend to have less ‘cushion’ under the bust, I can feel the strict band gripping my ribs and it’s a bit hurting after a while.
Similar thing happened to the Montgomery brief. I can wear it, but the rigid lace front part feels too restricting. The previous Montgomery brief that I made is very comfortable, but this one in exactly the same size is very rigid and not comfortable at all. That is why you don’t see it on the dummy, I couldn’t get it past the dummy’s hip.
Actually I quite like the shape of the bra on me. It is such a pity this set is not comfortable because it looks so beautiful! I plan to make this pattern again in lined stretch fabric like my Boylston bra.
Here’s another black and white picture of the bra on me. Isn’t it pretty? Too bad I can’t wear it too long. Next time will be better!
Bra pattern is Marlborough bra by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size 30DD.
Brief pattern is Montgomery brief by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size XS.
Coral floral set
The thing about making bra is that you can never know for sure how the fit is until you finish it. That is why I often have hesitations in trying new bra patterns. My go-to lingerie patterns are Merckwaerdigh’s. They have so many patterns and I can be sure that they will fit me as always, so why trying something new?
Well, why not! Lately the bra patterns by Orange lingerie seem to be everywhere around the sewing blogs, so I got curious. At the end, I’m happy that I got curious!
For this set I use nude coloured lycra from Okadaya in Shinjuku, powernet from Tomato in Nippori, lace from this ebay store, foam lining from Makebra, and notions from Merckwaerdigh. The pattern is Boylston bra in size 30DD.
Boylston bra muslin
The pattern is very well-drafted with clear instructions. I love that the pattern pieces have both the stitching line and the seam allowance. This means that I can adjust the seam allowance easily if needed.
Since I don’t want to waste my precious fabric, I made a muslin first. It fits me quite well! In fact, this muslin bra is now one of my daily bra. The muslin bra is made from polyester fabric with little stretch and white lining. The fabric is letfover from my neon skirt.
For the coral set, I added foam lining on the cups. I also moved the placement of the straps at the front about 1 cm to the center front direction.
The floral lace was not much, so I just put it on the upper cups and used the rest for the panties. I also use elastic straps instead of fabric straps. I think it fits better for the delicate look of the lace.
Do you see how he colour of the Merckwaerdigh notions fits perfectly with the colour of the lace? I am very happy about it! Especially because I’m not very confident about dyeing my own elastics and notions.
After finishing the bra, I wanted to try another Orange lingerie pattern so I bought the Montgonery brief pattern. The bottom of this brief is cut on fold, eliminating the need to use elastic for a smooth look under clothing. No VPL!
This pattern is another success for me. I was pleased to find that the bottom provides enough coverage although without elastics.
The second panty were made with Gia thong pattern by OhhLulu that I have used several times.
I’m very happy with this set, especially with the pretty colours and the fit. The only thing that I want to change for my next one is moving the straps at the back a bit closer. And probably it is better if the band elastic is wider.
Here is how the bra on me. I realize that picture is modelled bra is quite important if I want to show how the fit is. I apologize that it is in black and white!
Bra pattern is Boylston bra by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size 30DD.
Brief pattern is Montgomery brief by Orange Lingerie (PDF), size XS.
Thong pattern is Ohh Lulu 1308 Gia (PDF) size S.
It’s the last day in 2015! Let’s take a look back to my sewing journey this year.
More variations this year. Culottes, jacket, jeans, shorts, skirts, dresses. And I’m happy to say that most of them get lots of wearing time!
Why do I love making lingerie so much?? I still can’t stop making them this year!
I only got to make him this suit that he wore to elementary school graduation. Then he got into junior high school and since then he is in uniform or sports uniform all the time. No new clothes needed. That’s a pity because I love making him clothes.
A pair of pants and a sweater. No new jeans this year.
Only one bag, which is also my most-used item! Initially I made it for my husband, then I tried using it one day and never returned it back.
She only gets a couple of T-shirt refashions this year. Especially because she still has all the clothes that I made her the previous year!
See you in 2016!
The knee-length yoga leggings that I made last July are one of the most-worn item that I’ve ever made. But since the weather got cold, I have gone back to wearing my old store-bought leggings. I suppose it is time to make another leggings!
I have been learning more about sewing workout wear through Sew and Draft Your Own Personal 7 Piece Workout Wear Collection course that was sent to me by Burdastyle. In one of the lessons, Meg Healy (the instructor) teaches how to develop the basic leggings sloper pattern into a pair of leggings with crotch gusset.
The gusset is drafted in a very simple manner, basically it is consisted of two pairs of pieces from the front and back crotch pattern. For my next pair, I want to draft the gusset in one piece instead of four pieces like this one. On the inside, the gusset has a piece of jersey lining to make it more comfortable.
The waistband is drafted wide with folded edge on top. There is no additional elastic in the waist band so it is very comfortable. I like wide waistband like this that reaches to my belly button. The crotch and waistband seams are topstitched with decorative stitches that look like flatlock. I read about this technique on Tasia’s post in Sewaholic blog.
Speaking of Tasia from Sewaholic, I bought her Dunbar top pattern to make a sports bra! I use the same black spandex fabric as my leggings, carrot red spandex for the contrast, and store-bought foldover elastic.
“The Dunbar Top or Sports Bra is fully lined, with a powernet shelf bra that includes pockets for optional padding or removeable bra cups. Racerback styling and contrast seaming gives it a cool modern look. Choose high-impact contrast like black and white, or opt for tone-on-tone fabrics for a subtler look. Edges are bound with fabric binding strips. View A is a mid-hip length tank top with a shelf bra lining. View B is a sports bra with elastic along the lower edge.”
My lining is powernet in orange-red color that is actually quite thin, so I added another layer of stronger black powernet between the layers. The bra cups have openings on the side for removable bra cups.
I really suggest to make a muslin if you are interested in making this bra. The bra is quite short from top to bottom. I cut size 2 and had to add 2 cm on the bottom end of each piece. The recommended elastic length for the underband is way too long for me. I measure my elastic by putting it around myself snugly and cut the desired length. When attaching the binding, I made sure to stretch the elastic binding slightly so it will fit snugly when the bra is being worn.
I usually wear encapsulation sports bra with separate cups and underwire like this Panache sports bra and not the compression type like the Dunbar. The feeling is a bit different, it is much lighter. I like this one better! The bra is very comfortable, I think I want to use this pattern to make another bra in jersey fabric without the shelf bra just for lounging at home.
Selamat ulang tahun Mama / HAPPY
Unrelated to the sportswear, today is my 44th birthday! I’m not sure how I feel about being 44, sometimes I feel like I’m still not an adult yet.
Here is a pot of succulents that Sidra bought for me. He bought it at the market near our house, but on the way home the pot got turned over. He didn’t have the chance to fix it because he had to hide it rightaway when he got home. I think it is a very endearing story.
The cards are from my husband and Sidra. My husband wrote ‘Happy birthday Mama’ in Indonesian, and the little writing around it is something like ‘together forever’. Sidra drew me from a photo. He said that the mouth part is very difficult, so he just gave me a wide grin instead.
I feel very lucky to have these two sweet men in my life at this moment!
Sports bra pattern is Sewaholic Dunbar top (PDF), size 2.
Leggings pattern is developed from Burdastyle knit leggings sloper (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.
Disclosure: The leggings sloper pattern is included in Sew and Draft Your Own Personal 7 Piece Workout Wear Collection course sent to me for free by Burdastyle.
I was cleaning my sewing room when I found some little pieces of black stretch lace, leftover from my black strappy bra. It was too little for anything but I didn’t want to throw them away yet. So I put together some powernet, elastics, and other bra notions to make a new bra.
The pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHST2, which is perfect because it only need very little pieces of lace for the upper cups. The pattern originally has low back that I changed into regular straight back. The lower cups, bridge, and bands are powernet with the bridge lined with non-stretch mesh lining.
The hardest part about making a bra is the fitting. Once you find the right fitting pattern, the actual sewing is quite fast because all the pieces are so small. I finished this bra in about 3 hours and wore it the next day. Here it is with the thong from my black strappy bra that has the same lace.
Bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHST2 size 30E with back altered.
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