Tutorial: Kitten’s post surgery clothes

Tutorial: Kitten

Kitten’s post surgery clothes: Front

There are several request for the kitten’s post surgery clothes from the last post. Since I had to make more for the shelter, I documented the process for this tutorial.

These clothes are meant for female kittens or puppies to wear after they have a surgery, usually spay surgery. For male kittens or puppies, the clothes usually have a ‘pee hole’ in the front part, but I didn’t have the chance to make one. The size is pretty small, the kittens that I made these clothes for weigh about 1.5-2 kg.

Disclaimer: For personal use only. Please do not pass off the pattern and tutorial as your own. Thank you!

Tutorial: Kitten

Kitten’s post surgery clothes: Back



  • length from neckline to tailhole: 24 cm
  • back width: 25 cm


Tutorial: Kitten



  • Kitten’s post surgery clothes pattern (size XS – 1.5-2 kg). DOWNLOAD HERE (1 cm seam allowances are included)
  • 0.4 m jersey fabric (you can make 2 from this amount)
  • 1.2 m foldover elastic (FOE)
  • 30 cm zipper


  • Use straight stitch for attaching zipper.
  • Usually we use zigzag stitch or overlocker for the shoulder and side seams of knit clothing. But this clothing is quite small so straight stitch can also be used.
  • Use zigzag stitch for attaching FOE (my usual setting is width set on 3 and length set on 2).
  • I like to use one step to stitch the FOE. Some people use two steps, in which the FOE in unfolded state is stitched to the wrong side of the fabric, then the FOE is folded to the right side and stitched for the second time.
  • I suggest to make a muslin version first because sometimes the length can be a bit too short or too long depending on the breed.


Cutting fabric:

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Place pattern pieces on fabric, pay attention to the direction of greatest stretch.

Tutorial: Kitten

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Cut 1 front piece and 2 back pieces.


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  • Sew back pieces to each side of the zipper. Note that the head of the zipper is at the tailhole. You can use zipper foot to stitch.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Cut the end of zipper at the neckline, then stitch front piece to back piece at one of the shoulders with 1 cm seam allowance.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Measure 19 cm on the FOE and mark with erasable marker. Pin each mark at the end of the shoulders.
Tutorial: Kitten

Attaching FOE to the neckline


  • The FOE is shorter than the whole length of the neckline, and should be stretched while being stitched to the neckline. Remember to only stretch the FOE and not the fabric.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • The neckline is now finished with FOE.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Sew the other shoulder with 1 cm seam allowance. Direct the seam allowance to one side and topstitch to keep it down. I like to direct all seam allowances to the front side.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Attach FOE to the armhole. Each armhole needs 18 cm of FOE. Use the same method as attaching FOE to the neckline above.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Finish the tailhole end of the front piece with FOE. Stretch slightly while stitching the FOE.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Open the zipper, then cut each ends of the zipper. Remember to open the zipper first before cutting, otherwise you will have difficulty attaching the zipper head back!

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Finish the tailhole of the back pieces with FOE. Stretch slightly while stitching. Leave some length at the center back.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Fold the end of the FOE and topstitch. Trim the rest of the FOE at the wrong side.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Sew side seams with 1 cm seam allowance. Topstitch the end of FOE at the armholes.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Mark 16 cm on the FOE, then mark 5 cm from the end. Attach the first 11 cm on the leg hole, leaving the 5 cm hanging. Remember to keep stretching the FOE while stitching the last 5 cm.

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Stitch the end of FOE together, creating a loop. Topstitch the end of FOE. Do the same to the other leg hole.

Tutorial: Kitten Tutorial: Kitten

  • You are finished!

Tutorial: Kitten

  • Now make more because there’s always more kitties at the shelter!

I hope that the tutorial can be useful for you. Please adopt, don’t shop!

Guest post: Attaching Bias Binding For Corset Making

I am happy to once again have Scarlett from CorsetTraining.net here! This time she will show you how to attach bias binding on corsets. There’s a few tricks for finishing the end, especially when the binding ends in angled shapes.

Thank you Scarlett for the tutorial!


1 bias binding examples
I was so excited to find out I’d be guest blogging for Novita, I’m always in awe of all the beautiful clothes she makes. So I had a real think about what you, her readers, might find really useful. Something that could be applied not just to corsetry but to other items of clothing.

In corsetry, like with most home sewn garments, the finishing touches can elevate something to couture or make it stand out as homemade (we like to tell people we made it ourselves not have them guess!). With corset making the binding is one such ‘make or break’ detail; if you apply it badly it shows, especially at the centre front and back.

So I’ve put together this tutorial to show you exactly how to apply bias binding to a raw edge with a corner (which any garment with a closure has, the bottom edge of a button up shirt for example) and then I go over how to get those crisp corner edges, no matter what angle the corner is; for example at the front opening of the corset pictured above, the top edge slopes inward to meet the front and the bottom edge points out, creating two very different angles.

There’s also been a special 30% ‘Summer Fun Purple Discount’ in my store since last week when Novita kindly reviewed my corset making video course. It ends in the next few days so take advantage and learn corsetry this summer by clicking through and using the special PURPLE30 discount code before Monday!

The first thing I want to point out is that this is ‘bias binding’ which, you guessed it, is cut on the bias so the grain goes diagonally through the binding allowing it to ‘bend’. Don’t be tempted to use any other kind as you’ll get wrinkles if there’s even a slight curve in the fabric edge.

Place the binding with the opening face up, unfold one of its edges and line it up along the raw edge of your fabric, then pin as shown above. Leave about an inch hanging over the cornered edge.
Now sew along the crease in the binding, staying just to the side of it that’s nearest the raw edge. When you’re done it should look like the picture below.
Now fold the binding up along your line of stitching and flip the fabric.
Cut off any excess binding so you have about half an inch hanging off the corner and fold it in as shown below.
Now fold the binding down so it covers your line of stitching and pin. Do the same at the other end of the binding.

At this point you can hand stitch the binding to the wrong side of the fabric for a truly couture finish by taking a long stitch through the crease in the edge of the binding and then a tiny stitch through the garment fabric and repeating along the entire edge.

To machine stitch, turn back to the right side of the fabric and continue with the steps below.
Butt your machine needle up against the edge of the binding, one stitch away from the corner edge as shown above. We’re going to sew through the binding that needs securing on the back. This is why we pinned it below our first stitching line, so check your needle will catch it if you don’t think you pulled it down far enough on the back.

Now backstitch to the edge and sew a careful line along the fabric where it meets the binding. When you get to the other end, backstitch once to secure. It should look like the picture below.
And here it is from the back. I’ve used a very thick thread in a contrasting colour to make it easy to see but in a normal, colour matched thread it blends in nicely.

Perfect corners

Here we have a pointy corner that needs binding, I’ve already sewn the first line on the front and flipped it over.
The trick to getting perfect corners, no matter what the angle, is to fold the edge of the binding so that it matches the edge of the fabric. In the image above you can see my folded bias binding continues the straight line of the fabric edge. You can place a ruler next to the fold to check everything lines up if you don’t want to eyeball it.
Now fold the binding down as before, preserving that folded edge by letting any excess flap out on the back (just make sure the binding fold looks nice and straight from the front). You can then tuck in any pointy bits on the back, as shown in the picture below.
Once you have any excess binding tucked away at the back it should look like this.
Flip back to the right side of the fabric and secure as we did before. Here is the stitching on the inside.
And here’s the stitching from the right side with its perfectly pointy corner binding. I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and learnt something new. A massive thank you to the lovely Novita for having me! 🙂

How to buy from Full of Patterns website

Hello! Several people have expressed interest in Full of Patterns, so I asked them if it is possible for people living outside Japan to purchase the PDF patterns. They replied immediately and sent these step-by-step screen captions with English explanations (in red) on how to order. It might be a bit of a hassle, but their patterns are good so it is worth to try. I have made several patterns from them that you can see here.

Full of Patterns sells patterns in paper and PDF version but you can only purchase the PDF patterns from outside Japan. They seem to focus more on menswear pattern with on-trend styles: selvedge jeans, sarouel pants, jackets etc. There are also kidswear, which mostly are the kids version of their menswear patterns, and a bit of womenswear.

Several things to note:

  • – The patterns are in Japanese. There are a couple of diagrams but not a full step by step instructions. But I believe if you are an experienced sewer, you won’t have too many problems. Some of the patterns, like drawstring pants, are easy and are suitable for beginners.
  • – The patterns are not multi-size, you have to choose your size before purchasing. They also sell multi-size patterns but of course more expensive.
  • – Because it is only one size, they can show both the stitching lines and the seam allowances.
  • – The payment option is by credit card.
  • – I find it very helpful to browse the site using Google translate extension on Chrome.



1. Go to the Full of Patterns website, or you can click one of the options below.


2. Browse the patterns and choose ones that you like. This is an example page of the pattern. See the four columns with the title on blue background? The first one is size chart and finished measurements. The second one is some example of the instruction pages. The third one is the pattern pieces. The fourth one is an example of the pattern in actual size.

Follow the instructions in red.


3. This is your shopping cart. You can continue shopping or go to checkout.


4. You can register as a member but it is not necessary to buy the patterns. They do give points that you can collect and use for the next purchase if you choose to be a member.


5. Fill your information in this page. Your payment option is only by credit card. For the telephone number, postcode, and address, put the ones as shown in this screen caption.


6. Review your order.


7. Go to the credit card information page.


8. Done! They will send order confirmation to your email in Japanese, you don’t have to do anything with the email so don’t worry. The link to download the pattern will be sent to your email in 1-2 days.

Good luck!

PS: I’m not affiliated with Full of Patterns and just sharing the information that they gave me.

Tutorial: Sewing Panties

This post is part of the Stretch Yourself series, hosted by Miriam of Mad Mim and Miranda of One Little Minute. It is a two week long series about sewing with knits that have started last week, covering various topics like fabric selection, pattern-making, construction, finishing techniques with various style and projects by 10 guest bloggers.

Today I am honored to be one of the guest blogger! Don’t forget to check out Jodi at Sew Fearless who will also posting about using stretch lace.

Sewing panties

Sewing Panties

My tutorial is for sewing your own panties, but most especially about using and attaching several types of elastics. Sewing your own panties is fast and easy, really it is much more faster than reading this whole tutorial. You don’t need too much fabric, and can even recycle fabric from old T-shirts. With imaginations, you can have a drawer full of pretty and colorful panties in no time!

You will need:

Elastics and fabric

  • Stretch fabric: lycra, jersey. The amount will depend on your size, but usually about 0.5 m is enough. Old T-shirts can also be used!
  • 4-7 mm width elastic, about 1.5-2 m for each panties. I usually use the plush picot edge elastic, it has one soft side that will make it comfortable against the skin. I will also show how to use foldover elastic and regular elastic.
  • No serger needed! An ordinary sewing machine that can sew straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and 3 step zigzag stitch (optional) is all you need. Use ballpoint sewing machine needle for sewing jersey/stretch as regular sewing needle can be too sharp and damage the fabric.
  • And of course, a pattern. There are many free panties pattern available on the net, here is some of them:

You can also trace them yourself from the ones you already have. Cut the panties on the seamline and trace them on paper. Then add 6 mm (1/4″) seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

Cutting the fabric

Placing pattern pieces

  • For most pattern, you will have three pieces, front, back, and crotch.
  • Fold your fabric and place your pattern pieces. Pay careful attention to the grainline marks. The finished panties will be twisted if the grainline is off.

  • You will usually have 1 front piece, 1 back piece and 2 crotch pieces (one is for crotch lining).
  • If your fabric is lycra, use cotton jersey for the crotch lining because it is more comfortable. I usually cut old T-shirts for this purpose.
  • Transfer the pattern markings to the fabric. You can use fabric marker, but some tiny snips are usually enough.

Points to remember:

  • You can use straight stitch to sew the panties, but I prefer to use zigzag stitch to maintain the stretchiness of the fabric. When using straight stitches, sometimes the stitches might ‘pop’ when the fabric is stretched.
  • I usually set my zigzag stitch on 2.5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
  • Stretch the fabric slightly when sewing, matching the edges. You don’t need to use too many pins.

Sewing the panties

  • Sandwich the back piece between two crotch pieces, matching all the stitching marks. Pay attention to the fabric sides. Both right sides of the crotch piece should be against the back piece. Hold the layers with pins.

Stitch the sandwiched layers together

  • Stitch the sandwiched layers together using zigzag stitches. Hold the fabric and stretch them slightly with your fingers to nudge the edges together.

  • Roll the back piece between the two crotch pieces.

  • Sandwich the front piece between crotch piece and crotch lining, again while paying attention to the fabric sides. Stitch these layers together as before.

  • Turn the crotch inside out. Voila! All crotch seams are hidden inside!
  • Sew each side seams of the panties. It’s time to sew the elastics!

Sewing the elastics: picot edge

Picot edge elastic has one picoted edge and one straight side. The picot edge will look very pretty peeking a bit around the waist and leg openings. Some of them has plush side to make it comfortable against the skin.

Mark the center back and front

  • Measure the waistline of the panties and cut your elastic about 15-20% shorter than the measurement. Add 1 cm (5/8″) allowance before you cut.
  • You can also measure the elastic by placing it around your waist comfortably.
  • Mark the center point of the elastic with pin or fabric marker, also mark the center back and front of the waist.

Pin the elastic to the fabric

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the right side of the fabric,  Line the straight edge (non picoted) of the elastic against the edge of fabric. Pin the center of elastic to the center front.


  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, making it as close as possible to the picoted edge.
  • When sewing elastic to the fabric, you should stretch ONLY the elastic and not the fabric.
  • I don’t use other pins other than the two above and only do the stretch-hold-sew. Stretch the elastic slightly, put your thumb down to hold it in place, and sew. Repeat until you reach the center back again.

  • Overlap the end of elastic by 1 cm.
  • If necessary, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.

Topstitch using 3 step zigzag stitch or ordinary zigzag stitch

  • Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch. I usually set the stitch on 4-5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
  • Stretch slightly when sewing. You don’t have to use any pins at all in this step. Don’t forget to backstitch at the end of stitching.
  • If your sewing machine don’t have 3 step zigzag stitches, ordinary zigzag stitch or other decorative stitches can also be used.

  • Repeat the procedure for both leg openings.
  • When sewing the elastic to the leg openings, I usually start on the crotch.
  • Pin end of elastic to a random point on the crotch. Pin center of elastic to approximately halfway point of leg.

Picot edge elastic

  • Your panties is finished! Sometimes the elastic stretched up a little after sewing, but it will spring back after washing.


Sewing the elastics: foldover elastic

Foldover elastic has a slightly shiny side with a folding line along the middle.  The folding line will make it easier to keep the elastic in the same width on either side of fabric. They will create a clean, neat finish to the panties.

Sewing foldover elastic

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric,  Line the edge of the elastic
    against the edge of fabric.
  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, keeping the stitches in one side of the folding line that is farther from the fabric edge. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
  • Trim the seam allowance .
  • Fold the elastic on the folding line, and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.

Foldover elastic


Sewing the elastics: regular elastic

Regular elastic may not look as nice as picot edge or foldover elastics, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t use them! You can also use this following method to sew clear elastics.

Sewing regular elastic

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric,  Line the edge of the elastic
    against the edge of fabric.
  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
  • Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.

Regular elastic


  • Sew tiny embellishment to the front of panties, tiny bows, crystals, buttons.
  • Slash the pattern in several pieces and use them to mix fabric in different colors or patterns.
  • Use picot edge elastic on the neckline and armholes of your nighties and camisoles!

Thank you and I hope the tutorial will be useful!

A guest post and A Best Top!

It is raining outside and the sky is a bit dark, but there are sunshine in my house because I have two wonderful news today!

By now, you must have been following the Free Pattern Month over at Grosgrain blog. If you haven’t, you should check it out! It is a whole month devoted for wonderful free pattern and tutorial by several guests from around the blogosphere, one pattern each day! Kathleen is always so full of ideas!

Scallop hat

I’m so honored to be one of her guest too! Please check out my guest post today where I’m sharing a pattern and tutorial for this scallop hat. This wide-brimmed hat is perfect for summertime. And if you want, you can smooth off the scalloped edge on the pattern to create an ordinary wide-brimmed hat.

The fabric for my hat is orange thick twill fabric that I found in a local fabric store for a very cheap price, and I still have lots of leftover. I use quilting cotton for lining. Sewing this hat is not difficult, the most time-consuming part is the scallops because they need to be done carefully. But careful work will give the best result!

Scallop hat

Guest tutorial post is HERE.

Download the pattern here [wpdm_file id=11]

Free Pattern Month


The second news is: I just found out that my broken striped top has won Judges’ Choice for Best Top in Spring Top Sewalong 2011! I’m so happy! Thank you so much to Rae and the judges! \(^_^)/

Broken Striped top by Novita

Best Top Judges’ Choice


Cockroach plush tutorial

Cockroach plush

Giant cockroach!

A cockroach plushie?

Who needs cute bear or cat plushies? I’m sure every boy would love a huggable cockroach! This is Sidra’s favorite toy at the moment, he calls it Gokiburi-kun (gokiburi means… well, cockroach).

The cockroach is basically just an oval shape pillow with legs. The wings and head are made with leftover dupioni silk that I dyed brown. The original color of the silk was silver, and the shimmers would make a perfect cockroach. The body is made with cotton/linen fabric with interesting texture, leftover from my husband’s shirt.

Fancy your own giant cockroach? Carry on!

Disclaimer: For personal use only. Please do not pass off the pattern and tutorial as your own. Thank you!

Cockroach plush

Don’t you hate it when it happens?

Click to download


Note: seam allowances are NOT included. You have to add it before cutting fabric.

Approximate dimension:

  • without legs and antennae: 23x38cm
  • without legs and antennae: 50x58cm


  • Fabric scraps. You can mix and match fabric in different pattern and shades.
  • scrap of quilt batting for wings.
  • thin wire for the antennae and legs. I use thin plastic wire because they’re very soft and won’t poke out.
  • Filling for body.



Cutting fabric:

  • Cut fabric pieces from pattern: 1 head, 1 body, 1 underside, 4 wings. Don’t forget the placement marks.
  • Cut 2 pieces of wings from quilt batting.
  • Cut 12 fabric bias strips for legs: 2 x 22 cm.
  • Cut 4 fabric bias strips for antennae: 2 x 28 cm.





  • Place each pair of wing pieces with right sides together.
  • Put batting on top and sew around the wings, leaving the top open.
  • Clip curves around and turn wings right side out. Batting is now sandwiched between fabric.

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  • Sew rows of stitches on wings, 1 cm apart. Use the outer curve as guideline and continue inwards.

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Legs and antennae:

  • Place a pair of strips wrong sides together.


  • Make 2 rows of stitching, approximately a sewing foot apart. Tapered the stitching lines to meet at the end, making a pointed shape. Backstitch at the end to reinforce. This will create a tube with closed end.


  • Measure each leg and cut 18 cm from the pointed end. Measure antennae and cut 24 cm from pointed end.


  • Trim allowances close to stitching.
  • Insert thin wire into the tube.

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  • Place wings on the placement marks on body. Baste the top.
  • Sew the body and head together.

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  • Place legs and antennae on the placement mark on the underside piece. Baste in place.
  • Place body and head piece over the underside piece, matching all placement marks.
  • Sew all around, leaving the opening unstitched. Be careful to not catch the wings and legs when sewing.

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  • Clip curves around and turn cockroach right side out (eww).

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  • Fill the cockroach with your choice of filling.
  • Handstitch the opening close.

I personally think that the roach would look better without eyes, but Sidra was concerned that his roach wouldn’t be able to ‘see’ so he asked for a pair of eyes.


A face only a mother could love


You can shrink or enlarge the pattern to make more roaches! Here’s my prototype roach made with leftover wool. The legs and antennae are braided fabric strips.


One cockroach is not enough!

Pattern and tutorial by Novita Estiti c 2011.

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