It seems that nowadays I sew more lingerie than ordinary clothes. Sewing lingerie is so addictive. The pieces are small so it doesn’t take too much space, but the number of variations and alterations that can be made are endless. Wearing a pretty set of lingerie always makes me happy, as if I’m having a beautiful secret.
Here is the most popular Watson bra. I’m sure you have seen this pattern around the blogosphere and maybe have made one for yourself! It is indeed a beautiful pattern with very clear instructions. I used white stretch lace because I want a white bra that can be easily matched with other panties.
The cups are lined with white powernet, while the bridge is lined with non-stretch lining. I made the longline version in size 30D, shortening the height of the band a bit because I’m short-waisted.
I was very satisfied with the fit and how pretty it looks. However, after wearing it for sometime I found that the bottom band keep flipping up. I’m not sure what causes this, probably because I’m short-waisted? To fix this problem, I stitched underwire casing on the sides and center front of the bra, and inserted rigilene plastic boning inside. Problem is fixed, no more rolling up! I feel that the boning also makes the bra keeps its shape better.
The panties are made with Lace Tanga pattern by Sew Fast on Burdastyle. I have made this pattern several years ago for this red lace set. It’s free, very easy to sew, and doesn’t require any elastics.
The second set is made using Jalie patterns. I just found out that Jalie patterns are also available in PDF. How did I not know this?? Anyway I quickly went ahead to buy several patterns.
The bra pattern is Jalie 3131, it is a bra and camisole patterns in 17 sizes. In Jalie patterns, you pick the band pattern according to the underbust size and the cups pattern according to the full bust size. My underbust falls to size Q, and coincidentally my full bust is also size Q.
The panties pattern is Jalie 3242, it includes 6 underwear patterns for men, women, and children in 29 sizes. you can make underwear for the whole big family just using this one pattern. I also made size Q for this underwear, but it feels a bit too snug. So next time I will make size R.
The instructions for both patterns are very good with diagrams and step by step instructions. You can even watch this video on how to sew the Jalie bra. I also like that Jalie patterns have suggested elastic length for every part that needs it. The bra cups and bridge are lined with powernet and all the seams inside are enclosed between the fabric and the lining.
Here is the fit of the Watson bra (size 30D) and Jalie 3131 (size Q) on me. My underbust is 26.5″ and full bust is 31.5″.
I really don’t like how the cups of Jalie bra seem to smush my breast. The cups on the Watson bra gives a much better shape compared to Jalie’s. Having said that, the Jalie bra is surprisingly very comfortable! I wore it reluctantly (because I hate the shape), but at the end of the day I went to sleep in it. The next day I even made another one with the leftover fabric!
Looking at the pictures of the Jalie bra, I probably need to make one cup size bigger although I have used the size according to measurements. I also might need a smaller band because I wear this one already in the tightest hook. However I’m not really sure if I want to experiment with this bra anymore because of its shape. But it is comfortable! But the shape! That’s the kind of dilemma that I face in daily life….
- White bra pattern is Cloth Habit Watson bra (PDF), size 30D.
- White panties pattern is Sew Fast Lace Tanga Panties on Burdastyle (free PDF), size XS
- Nude bra pattern is Jalie 3131 (PDF), size Q
- Nude panties pattern is Jalie 3242 (PDF), size Q.