These are Merckwaerdigh BHST2, underwired bra with low back. The panties patterns are Merckwaerdigh MIX30 and Merckwaerdigh Mix25 that I have used several times before. The set was made with a Merckwaerdigh kit which includes fabrics and all notions, enough for one bra and two panties. Using kit like this is great because I can skip the mix and match step and focus on sewing rightaway.
In the original pattern, the cups have no padding. Since I was quite happy with the foam lined cups on my last set, I lined these ones with the foam lining from Makebra as well. Usually I don’t like wearing padded bra, but this foam lining absolutely doesn’t increase breast volume. So I’m quite happy to have found them.
I cut the foam lining pieces with no seam allowances on the top and center seam. The pieces were butted against each other and zigzagged together, then I cut a strip of non-stretch lining and put it on top of the seam and stitched it down using three step zigzag stitch.
I feel that the blackness of the foam cups under the lace was too harsh, so I lined the foam cups with beige non-stretch lining. The top of the lace cups is not attached to the lined foam cups. To secure them, I tacked a couple of handstitched bars on the top of each cup. Sorry if the picture is not too clear, photographing black is not easy!
I find that with Merckwaerdigh bra patterns, I don’t have to alter too much. Usually I only had to shorten the band a couple cm and didn’t have to do anything with the cups. That’s why I really like them! These ones also fit quite well. The low back is very interesting and it will be very useful for summer dresses, and the foam lined cups will make it wearable during the cold weather!