Wyome boyfriend jeans
More jeans! After finished making my husband’s jeans, I felt a weird craving to make more jeans. I even had a dream where I made a super neat topstitching on the waistband, probably because I thought about them a lot. I guess I really love making jeans.
At this point there are two things that I can do. One is to decide that I have got too obsessed and should be looking for something else to do, and the other one is to just surrender and make another pair of jeans. Actually I’ve chosen option no. 1, until last weekend when I went to a store called Village Vanguard in Shibuya.
Despite claiming to be ‘an exciting bookstore’, Village Vanguard is a kitsch store that focuses on western pop culture. It is full of interesting knick-knacks like holga and polaroid cameras, T-shirts with interesting prints, clocks, pillowcases, basically anything that you don’t need but might want to have.
I went to the store to look around as usual when I noticed a stack of folded fabrics in a dark corner. Lo and behold! They were selvedge and non-selvedge denim fabrics, each fabric was cut enough to make a pair of jeans. This must be a sign from the jeans god.
I was going for another selvedge denim when I noticed this light blue denim and immediately had a vision of boyfriend jeans. And that was a rather unnecessary long story of how I justified myself for making another jeans.
The pattern is Wyome boyfriend jeans by Named patterns. This is a pattern for loose fitting five pocket jeans with low waist, revealed button closure and narrowed legs. I spent sometime looking for versions made by other sewer and I think most of them looked a bit too fitted for my vision of boyfriend jeans. So I decided to cut size 36 -one size bigger than my size- for a more ‘boyfriend’ effect.
My alterations are mostly shortening everything. The rise is shortened 1 cm and the legs are shortened 15 cm in three places. I also widen the legs about 2 cm around the calves as I often had pants stuck around there. I suppose I have big calves.
I have made several jeans before so I just used my usual way of sewing jeans instead of reading the instructions. The fabric is non-stretch denim, about 12 oz in weight, and sursprisingly very easy to sew. My waistband topstitching turned out quite neat just like in my dream!
The rivets are so beautiful that I can’t stop looking at them. They are from Citron Jeans, a Japanese store where I bought selvedge denim for my husband. The row of exposed buttons is my favorite part! These buttons are from Okadaya in Shinjuku.
The denim was still quite a bit stiff but they will get more comfortable with each wear (or so I’ve heard). I’m not quite used to wearing stiff fabric so I tried to distress the fabric. I put a small wallet to the back pocket and sandpapering from the outside.
Then I learned that it is better if you distress the fabric before topstitching. After witnessing several broken threads in my delightful topstitching, I decided to stop the distressing and just let nature run its course. I do like the hole in the back pocket though!
Pattern is Wyome jeans from Named patterns (PDF), size 36.
Dismantling the pockets
I just learned a lesson to always use good pocket lining materials for jeans. When I made these pair of jeans for my husband in 2011, I used quilting cotton for the pocket lining because I liked the print. They didn’t last the abuse that my husband put them through and torn apart after a year. I guess I forgot that men do use their pockets! Unlike me who occasionally put a coin in my coin pocket and put everthing else in my bag.
Before fixing the pockets, I have offered to make him another pair of jeans (wohoo because I love sewing jeans), but he kept wearing this pair. He said they are his favorite jeans and have become very comfortable.
Pinning the new pocket piece
After his phone slide down his leg one day, I decided to face this matter seriously. I unpicked the waistband and side seams around the pockets and then dismantled the pockets completely. All the pieces were given a good press, then I cut a new pocket lining with suitable fabric. I also overlocked the pocket pieces as the edges were merely zigzagged. I still didn’t have a serger at that time.
The great thing about making the jeans yourself is that you still have the pattern pieces and can recall what kind of materials that you used. I happen to still have the topstitching threads in my stash. It also helped that I used bar tacks instead of rivets on these jeans.
As good as new!
Everything is attached back together and it turned out to not taking as much time as I thought! Should have done it ages ago!
This experience got me interested to looking more for denim repair. I found this company website who does traditional denim repair. The gallery is full of beautiful images of handsewn denim repair! More on their Instagram account. Maybe I can try doing the same when my husband’s jeans has deteriorated some more.
Sometime ago I posted that I wanted to make a pair of selvedge jeans for my husband and have started making the muslin. It turned out that ‘sometime ago’ meant 8 months ago! Yikes. The good news is, the jeans are finally finished now! And actually it only took me two days to make them, just in time for my husband’s 44th birthday!
Citron jeans denim kit no. 348
The pattern is Men’s jeans FOP-07 by Full of Patterns, a Japanese pattern shop. The site is completely in Japanese but it wasn’t a big problem as I always use Google translate extension on Chrome to browse and even order things from Japanese sites. This pattern shop offers many great-looking men’s pattern, unfortunately they don’t seem to cater for international customers. The FOP-07 is a basic 5-pocket denim pants with straight side seams for selvedge denim and straight legs.
The denim fabric is from another Japanese shop, Citron jeans. This shop sells raw denim, buttons, and all the knick-knacks for sewing your own selvedge jeans.
Citron jeans also sells denim kit in a box, containing raw denim for one pair of jeans, pocket lining fabric, uncut belt loops, zipper or button fly, red ribbon tab, and brown paper label. I bought Denim kit no.348 with button fly, the fabric is 13.5 oz raw denim with red ear (selvedge).
I’m not really a fan of making buttonholes on denim fabric so I love that there are kits like these. The kit that I chose is recommended for beginner as the fabric is soft and easy to sew. I also bought topstitching threads, rivets, and donut buttons from this shop.
In my first post about this jeans, I have made a muslin. But then I didn’t seem able to locate it! I didn’t want to postpone this project any longer so I decided to just cut into the fabric. What can go wrong anyway??
Once they were cut, I felt more relaxed and started to enjoy making the jeans. One of the joy of making jeans is making the details: the color of topstitching threads, the shape of the topstitching on the pockets and fly, the button or zipper fly, the button, rivets, and bar tacks etc. For this jeans, I use rust colored topstitching and copper colored rivets and button.
The back yoke and back pockets are lined with Japanese pattern cotton fabric. The opening of the front pockets are reinforced with cotton twill tape. The selvedge is used on the coin pocket opening and the waistband edge, and of course the side seams. I also changed the shape of the coin pocket and use button fly instead of zipper fly. Here is a tutorial on making a button fly by Peter at Male Pattern Boldness.
I ended up making my own belt loops because the one from Citron jeans use yellow topstitching. My least favorite part about making this jeans was the topstitching on the waistband. I wasn’t able to make neat lines because the denim was quite thick. Usually I would unpick such wiggly topstitching but I was afraid to ruin my sewing machine with all the thick layers so I had to resign to these unsightly lines.
I also had trouble installing the donut button and had to try several times until I got them somewhat okay. Maybe I should use one of those hand pressed button tool. Tack buttons are easier to install, I usually use Prym jeans button but the options are limited. Nothing as beautiful as these copper colored button!
I also made the T-shirt by the way. The pattern is Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory, the T-shirt variation. It is a great basic Men’s T-shirt with slim fiitting lines. The fabric is striped merino wool fabric, you might remember the same fabric in my SJ tee post. Now my husband and I can wear matching handmade tee and jeans (if we want).
Sorry for posting so many pictures! This is one of my favorite project that I wouldn’t be able to make more often. I’m afraid I would ruin my sewing machine stitching layers of denim fabrics. Maybe someday I can buy an industrial sewing machine that can be dedicated to making jeans.
Here is a couple more pictures of my husband taking no pleasure in male modelling. Happy birthday my love! I love you forever (♥_♥)
Jeans pattern is Mens’s jeans FOP-07 by Full of Patterns (PDF in Japanese), size L. How to buy from Full of Patterns.
T-shirt pattern is Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory, size M.
These are my newest favorite items of clothing! They were actually finished about a month ago and I’ve been wearing them a lot ever since.
The top was made with the merino wool from the Anima pants winner prize that I got last month. I thought the sewing pattern should come from Papercut Patterns as well, so I bought the SJ tee PDF pattern. I love the instant-ness of PDF pattern but Papercut patterns packagings are so cute so I kinda regret not buying the paper version.
SJ tee is a slouchy fit tee with the option of a long or short fitted raglan sleeve with wide cuff. It has full length and cropped length options and short or long sleeves options. I made size XXS in full length with short sleeves options.
I made petite alteration by shortening the bodice length 2 cm above waist and 1 cm across the raglan lines. This alteration also shortened the neckline so it is not too wide for me.
When finishing the neckline, I cut the neck band about 75% shorter from the neckline. The neck band is attached to the neckline using overlocker, stretched slighly to fit. Then I topstitched from the right side using zigzag stitches set on 0.5 width and 3 on length. The result is a neckline that is not too wide and ‘hugs’ the body.
Elastic as waistband interfacing
The jeans pattern is Sandra narrow leg jeans by Style Arc. This is a classic narrow legs jeans with contoured waistband slightly below waist. Fabric is dark denim with little stretch.
As usual the instructions for Style Arc patterns are pretty brief, but it shouldn’t be a problem if you are familiar with making jeans.
I did an experiment with the waistband by using wide elastic as interfacing. The elastic is attached to the waisband seam allowance using zigzag stitch without being stretched at all.
Then I finished the waistband and topstitched as usual. I believe this adds stability to the waitsband and preventing it from being stretched too fast. You can see that the waistband is slightly wrinkled when not being worn, but smoothed out on my body.
Other alterations are swayback adjustment and lots of leg shortening.
I’m totally happy with these two! The top is very comfortable and the neckline is just right. I love the sleeves cuff because they keep me from being exposed when I raise my hand to hang on the train handles. Well, in case I forget to shave or something….
The jeans are the the best fit pants that I’ve made so far! Unfortunately I made a slight mistake that I realized too late. Can you guess what it is? I was waiting for the bus and going to put a coin to my coin pocket, but it wasn’t there! Turned out I have stitched the coin pocket to the left side instead of the right. I have thought about taking it off altogether but then decided to keep it there as a reminder for my next jeans making. Or maybe I will take it off anyway because I keep reaching for the non-existent coin pocket….
Top pattern is SJ tee by Papercut Patterns, (PDF) size XXS.
Jeans pattern is Sandra narrow leg jeans by Style Arc, size 6.
Sidra is always in need of new clothes as he keeps growing. But it is not easy finding clothes for boys, and finding good boys’ sewing patterns is even more difficult. So I was quite excited when I heard the theme for the Perfect Pattern Parcel #4 , which is boys’ essential fall wardrobe. Just what I need!
Here is the patterns from The Perfect Pattern Parcel #4! The parcel is now on sale for limited time from August 22 September 5. Like the previous parcels, parcel #4 features five patterns by indie designers. The patterns are:
Bonus pattern: Knight Hoodie
You can choose how much you want to pay for these parcel, and if you choose $26 or greater, you get to unlock this Bonus Pattern: Knight Hoodie by Charming Doodle!
As before, part of the pattern parcel sale will go to Donor’s Choose, an organization that matches up the needs of teachers and their students for specific projects with willing donors.
I was offered to participate in the blog tour and given all the patterns in the parcel. The first thing I did was showing them all to Sidra and let him choose. I was actually intrigued about the Knight Hoodie pattern, it looks like fun! But Sidra said that it’s for little boys who want to play pretend. He said that he wanted clothes for big boys in solid dark colors, no funny prints, no bright colors, no cute details. Hey, where’s the fun??
Finally we agreed upon the Small Fry Skinny Jeans. It is a great basic jeans pattern with limitless options. You can make them with shorts length and full length, flat-felled seams, topstitched waistband, full or half zipper, and patch or inset front pockets with coin pocket. The waist is elasticated with adjustable buttons on the facing inside, a very thoughtful detail for children’s pants.
All the options and details are explained thoroughly with lots of photos and step by step instructions. I think this is also a great pattern for beginners who want to try a bigger project.
The pattern calls for woven fabric with a little stretch but I have this dark corduroy in my stash that I wanted to use. Sidra is a bit small for an eleven years old so I use size 9 for this pattern.
As requested, I made the most basic five pockets pants with contrast double topstitching and full zipper fly – no cute details whatsoever, not even the tag and button! The finished result looks just like a pair of ordinary pants, but Sidra loves them so much that he wanted to wear them to school rightaway! He said he wants more pants like this pair. I think I can call this project a success!
Blog tour! Check out all these awesome blogs to see their versions of the six patterns in the parcel:
casa crafty || Lulu & Celeste || Keep Calm and Carrion || Max California || Amanda Rose || little betty sews || Kadiddlehopper || Radiant Home Studio || La Pantigana || Boy, Oh Boy, Oh Boy Crafts || Friends Stitched Together || || Make It Perfect ||Modern Handmade || GYCT Designs || Needle and Ted || Mae & K || Mimi’s Mom || Pienkel || Once Upon a Sewing Machine || FABulous Home Sewn || Gray Skies || The Crazy Tailor || Nine Stitches || Oliver’s Fancy || a happy stitch || lady and the gents || Our Family Four || Swoodson Says || verypurpleperson || Things for Boys || Rebekah Sews || Sew a Straight Line || la inglesita || Made by Sara || Knot Sew Normal || Gracious Threads || Sofilantjes
Pattern is Small Fry Skinny Jeans by Titchy Threads – part of Perfect Pattern Parcel #4, size 9.