Selvedge men’s jeans – Full of Patterns 07

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07

Sometime ago I posted that I wanted to make a pair of  selvedge jeans for my husband and have started making the muslin. It turned out that ‘sometime ago’ meant 8 months ago! Yikes. The good news is, the jeans are finally finished now! And actually it only took me two days to make them, just in time for my husband’s 44th birthday!

Men's jeans FOP07
Men's jeans FOP07

Men's jeans FOP07
Citron jeans denim kit no. 348

The pattern is Men’s jeans FOP-07 by Full of Patterns, a Japanese pattern shop. The site is completely in Japanese but it wasn’t a big problem as I always use Google translate extension on Chrome to browse and even order things from Japanese sites. This pattern shop offers many great-looking men’s pattern, unfortunately they don’t seem to cater for international customers. The FOP-07 is a basic 5-pocket denim pants with straight side seams for selvedge denim and straight legs.

The denim fabric is from another Japanese shop, Citron jeans. This shop sells raw denim, buttons, and all the knick-knacks for sewing your own selvedge jeans.

Citron jeans also sells denim kit in a box, containing raw denim for one pair of jeans, pocket lining fabric, uncut belt loops, zipper or button fly, red ribbon tab, and brown paper label. I bought Denim kit no.348 with button fly, the fabric is 13.5 oz raw denim with red ear (selvedge).

I’m not really a fan of making buttonholes on denim fabric so I love that there are kits like these. The kit that I chose is recommended for beginner as the fabric is soft and easy to sew. I also bought topstitching threads, rivets, and donut buttons from this shop.

In my first post about this jeans, I have made a muslin. But then I didn’t seem able to locate it! I didn’t want to postpone this project any longer so I decided to just cut into the fabric. What can go wrong anyway??
Men's jeans FOP07
Men's jeans FOP07
Men's jeans FOP07

Once they were cut, I felt more relaxed and started to enjoy making the jeans. One of the joy of making jeans is making the details: the color of topstitching threads, the shape of the topstitching on the pockets and fly, the button or zipper fly, the button, rivets, and bar tacks etc. For this jeans, I use rust colored topstitching and copper colored rivets and button.

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07

The back yoke and back pockets are lined with Japanese pattern cotton fabric. The opening of the front pockets are reinforced with cotton twill tape. The selvedge is used on the coin pocket opening and the waistband edge, and of course the side seams. I also changed the shape of the coin pocket and use button fly instead of zipper fly. Here is a tutorial on making a button fly by Peter at Male Pattern Boldness.

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07
I ended up making my own belt loops because the one from Citron jeans use yellow topstitching. My least favorite part about making this jeans was the topstitching on the waistband. I wasn’t able to make neat lines because the denim was quite thick. Usually I would unpick such wiggly topstitching but I was afraid to ruin my sewing machine with all the thick layers so I had to resign to these unsightly lines.

I also had trouble installing the donut button and had to try several times until I got them somewhat okay. Maybe I should use one of those hand pressed button tool. Tack buttons are easier to install, I usually use Prym jeans button but the options are limited. Nothing as beautiful as these copper colored button!

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07

I also made the T-shirt by the way. The pattern is Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory, the T-shirt variation. It is a great basic Men’s T-shirt with slim fiitting lines. The fabric is striped merino wool fabric, you might remember the same fabric in my SJ tee post. Now my husband and I can wear matching handmade tee and jeans (if we want).

Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07
Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07
Sorry for posting so many pictures! This is one of my favorite project that I wouldn’t be able to make more often. I’m afraid I would ruin my sewing machine stitching layers of denim fabrics. Maybe someday I can buy an industrial sewing machine that can be dedicated to making jeans.

Here is a couple more pictures of my husband taking no pleasure in male modelling. Happy birthday my love! I love you forever (♥_♥)
Men's jeans FOP07 Men's jeans FOP07

Jeans pattern is Mens’s jeans FOP-07 by Full of Patterns (PDF in Japanese), size L. How to buy from Full of Patterns.
T-shirt pattern is Strathcona Henley by Thread Theory, size M.

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  • Todd

    Any advise on finding this pattern? I can’t manage to navigate through their site?

  • Hendrikje Krone

    I’ve recently got the Jeans sewing bug and am reading myself through the entire blogosphere to deepen my understanding of the whole Jeans sewing process lol – WOW your jeans look amazing! What a beautiful present! They look great on your guy and I hope he’s eternally grateful for that self sacrificial sewing gift you gave him! I’m spotting nipple rivets on your front pockets and am wondering what (if any) tool you used to get them to attach so nicely. In my frustration of not being able to get my rivets to attach I actually bought a rivet hand press, but I’m still waiting on delivery and haven’t been able to try it out… Well done on such a great job! 🙂

    • Hi, thank you for your comment!
      I have a Prym rivet kit that have some white plastic holder (not sure what the name is) to attach the rivets. The rivets are not from Prym, but the plastic holder is really useful to attach all kinds of rivets, preventing them from slipping around while being hammered. A rivet hand press will be much better though! Good luck with your jeans 🙂

  • Thanking God

    WOW! Great Job – I remember making it thru most of one labor by mental gymnastics – forcing myself to ‘figure’ out HOW to make a pair of men’s pants (w now previous experience of welts and those flys and….) that I had cut out and waiting! If i were pregnant again, I could force myself to figure out HOW to order off that HIlarious site!

  • lisa g

    these are so awesome! you do such great work on jeans. i know how what you mean about how hard it is to topstitch the waistbands though… i always fear my machine will give out! i really like the lined yoke, adds a cool touch to the inside.

    • Thank you! The waistband was the most difficult part, there are so many layers there! I wish I had a better machine.
      I saw that lined yoke details when googling selvedge jeans details and thought it was quite interesting!

  • missceliespants

    These are amazing. I bought raw denim to make a pair for my husband too. But, I haven’t… yet. I tried to order from FOP a few years ago and I ran into a purchasing problem. I can’t remember what it was now. Thanks for the review. They are terrific and your husband looks great!

    • I think you have to have Japanese address to order from FOP. I don’t understand why it is required for PDF patterns, but maybe they just use generic forms. Let me know if you need my help!

      • missceliespants

        Yes, I think that was it. Or, it wouldn’t take my US credit card (I had a Japanese reading intern help me out). So I messaged him and we were going to set up a paypal exchange and it sort of never happened. Not sure why. These really are terrific!

        • Hi Cidell, I just asked them about it and they sent me some instructions on how to buy the PDF patterns. I just posted them. Hope that helps!

  • These look AMAZING! I can’t ever imagine making jeans but you make it look so easy.

    Your husband’s last two photos are making me laugh – he’s the next Zoolander!

    • Haha those are his supermodel pose! 😛

  • These are absolutely gorgeous! Wonderful work!!!

    • Thank you Sonja! 🙂

  • Jane

    Wow, what a wonderful present. The details in your button fly and coin pocket are fabulous.

    • Thank you Jane, making the details was my favorite part!

  • MichaelC

    Beautiful jeans. they look so good

  • Those jeans are amazing and that kit looks so cool!

    • Thank you Sara! The kit is absolutely wonderful, I need to get another one!

  • Peter

    Those look fantastic!

    • Thank you Peter! And your button fly tutorial is a life saver!

  • sallieforrer

    These are just perfect!! Jeans are one of my favorite things to make as well, and making selvedge jeans for my husband was SO MUCH FUN!! I also love all the little details that go into a pair of jeans. I love the pre-made button fly that came with this kit, what a time saver! The whole look is perfect, Novita! And your husband looks fantastic in his tee and jeans!!

    • So much fun indeed! I was even a bit sad when I finished the hem and got ready to say goodbye to the jeans….

  • Wonderful stuff! Particularly like the detailing on the jeans, so good!

    • Thank you Isabel! The details are the joys of making jeans 🙂

  • They’re fabulous! So beautifully made. That pre-made button fly is genius, and I love that the package includes all the smalls like the leather label and red tab. I love the extra photos 🙂

    • The kit is wonderful! I hope there would be kit like this for international customer.
      My husband felt that he looked better when he’s not showing his teeth, I think he just looked upset 😛

  • Neroli

    Great work, as usual. You’re an inspiration to many of us. I wonder if I could get my husband to wear jeans I made?

    • I’m sure he would wear them! It will be a work of love 🙂

  • Those are beautiful! They are just so nicely made, I love the idea to line the yoke and the way you’ve put the coin pocket and lining together. I have some selvedge denim sitting around too, I’ve made several pairs of jeans before, but I’m still hesitant to chop in to that lovely fabric. Your husband certainly looks happy that you got around to cutting in to yours!

    • I waited more than a year before finally cutting into that selvedge denim… just do it! It was a very satisfying project for me and now I want to make another pair 😀

  • “Now my husband and I can wear matching handmade tee and jeans (if we want).”

    DO IT!!!

    Also, these jeans are amazing! Your ‘wonky’ stitching is my neat stitching.

    • Then I have to make another set for my son Sidra so he wouldn’t be feeling left out 😛
      Thank you! I think the topstitching looks better than I thought. I was nearly pulling my hair when I looked at them yesterday….

      • Haha I look forward to the family portrait! 😀