I wanted to make a quick summer dress project and after browsing at my pattern stash, I found this Vogue 8901. From the pattern envelope: “Dress has no side seams, close-fitting, lined bodice extending to side back, pleated skirt, side front seams, narrow hem, and invisible back zipper. B: lined skirt. C: bodice front cut on crosswise grain, back hook & eye closing, and zipper for skirt only.” The bodice of the dress is overlapped on the side and the skirt is actually just pleated rectangles. Looks simple enough!
I cut view A, size 6 on bust, tapered to 10 on waist and hip. The bodice of view A is fully lined but the skirt is not. I used the lining pattern from view B because I wanted my dress fully lined. I shortened the bodice about 2 cm and made my swayback adjustments, was feeling pretty sure that those were the only adjustments I would need as always for Vogue patterns.
Well, it turned out to be one of the most difficult pattern to fit my body after my Pastille dress! I’m sure that this pattern is not that difficult to fit if you have the right body though. The overlapped no side seams thing is not for the full-busted ladies!
In my first fitting, there was a serious gap at the side seams that would make the dress totally indecent to wear. I chopped off the lower end of the overlapped pieces and fitted it again until the gap disappeared. Maybe I should have added a couple of bust darts to make it better but at that point, the bodice was already fully lined and understitched. Which was totally my fault for not making a muslin first. When will I learn my lesson?!
The fitting took several times and I kept chopping the bodice until I started to worry that I’ve ruined the dress. I finally accepted that there was no way to completely eliminate the gaping and proceeded to finish the dress half-heartedly. I added a waist stay using grosgrain ribbon and bra hook and eyes to help the dress stay better.
I can’t wear a bra without them peeking at the side, but it is probably intended as shown in the drawing on the pattern envelope. It is not really a problem as the bodice is fully lined and the overlapped side is secure enough to stay. Although I’m not sure if it will be that secure for a fuller busted lady.
Anyway the dress is done! I’m still not totally in love with the result though, which is unfortunate since I really love the fabric. The fabric is grey rayon with adorable pink and white pineapples print that I bought in a fabric store near my house.
Monte was quite curious to see me walking around in the kitchen and tried to follow me. He hates to be left alone so I think he was worried that I would leave since I was fully dressed. Speaking of Monte, this might be the last time he joined my photo shoots because he has found an adopter! The family is perfect for him, they have three children (Monte loves children) and they had had a beagle before who died of old age. I had done feeling sad about it and now decided to be happy for Monte. He will be leaving at the end of this week and I’m sure he will be happy with his new family!
Pattern is s Vogue 8901, size 6 on bust tapered to 10 on waist and hip.