Recently I just came to a conclusion that my bra size is not quite right (!!!). You might ask how I didn’t realize that sooner? I think that a part of it was caused by years of never finding the right size so I never knew how the right bra size are supposed to feel. Another part of it was because I haven’t find the right way to find my correct bra size. I will post about this in the future.
To cut it short, I found out that my bra size is not 30C as I’ve believed before but a cup size bigger and a band size smaller, which is 28E (60E). I have to say that this is a bra size that I had never imagined a few years ago! But as I broaden my knowledge about bra sizes, I realized that this size is not that uncommon.
An E cup sounds overwhelming, but here is a helpful post about bra cup sizes and their relation to the band sizes. This is the bra calculator that have helped me finding my right size. My band measurement is 26.5 inches and my bust measurement is 31.5 inches, with moderately snug band option ticked, the calculator gave me the size 28E. I know that there are a lot of ways for finding the band sizes, one of them is adding several inches to the underbust measurements. Well, this doesn’t work. Band measurement is the same as underbust measurement, it is that simple.
Unfortunately the smallest band size for from Merckwaerdigh and Pin-Up Girls bra pattern is 30. As the cup for size 30D is the same as 28E, I can still use these patterns with few alterations. I’ve written to the most helpful Margreet from Merckwaerdigh asking about this, and she advised me to alter the 30D pattern by taking off about 2 cm from the center back, and make little pinches on the upper cup if necessary. This had been proven successful when I made a try-out bra using my Pin-up Girls Classic Bra #1230 size 30 D. I was quite happy about this pair and have been wearing it a lot (more about it on later post).
However I still wanted to try finding a bra pattern in my size, and found it one day when browsing the patterns at elingeria. It’s the Danglez DB5, an underwired bra pattern in multisize 60 C-E, 65 C-E, 70 C-E, 75 C-E, 80 C-E, 85 C-E. There is one review for DB5 on patternreview.com by Sigrid my lingerie heroine, and it helped convince me to try this pattern.
The pattern sheet is very clear with every sizes indicated by certain colors. I can’t speak about the instructions because unfortunately I forgot to ask for English instructions when ordering, so the instruction is in German. As I have made several bras before, it was not really a problem. But if you want to order this pattern, please take note of the instruction language.
I use baby blue lycra fabric, leftover from previous project. All the fabric and notions are from Merckwaerdigh. After finished sewing the bra, I wore them for several hours before noticing that the band kept riding up on the back. It is usually a sign that the band is too large. I unpicked the closure (hook and eye) parts and cut 2 cm off each side of center back (a total 0f 4 cm) then reattaching the hook and eye. After this alteration, the band stays without a problem.
In the future, I will add a downward hike to the back pattern piece to further prevent the band from riding up. The downward hike is a technique developed by Beverly Johnson, the author of the ‘Bra Makers Manual‘, to make sure the band doesn’t go up on the back. I found it from Sigrid’s post, unfortunately the link to Beverly Johnson’s post is not working anymore. Maybe I should buy this Bra Makers Manual as there are lots of good reviews about the book. Has any of you bought the book?
I still have enough fabric and lace for one pantie, so here is a matching one with my usual Merckwaerdigh Mix30.
Several pictures of the construction details. There is a bit of folded area around the closure area because the band is wider at the shortened parts. The bridge between the cups on this pattern is small so the underwire channeling lay on top of each other. For some people, this bridge area might be too small but it actually works for me.
The lace is attached to the lycra using three step zigzag stitch. I attached thin elastic on the inside of the scallop part.
I’m extremely happy with this new bra. So this is how it is supposed to feel! Sewing a pair of bra is not difficult, the problem is always finding the right fit. Right now I feel that I’m at the closest point to the perfect fitting bra that possible. The journey will still continue though!