Pattern testing: Robson coat

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robsonI’m sure you must be all excited when you read Tasia’s post about Sewaholic latest pattern: the Robson coat! This is an unlined classic trenchcoat that is perfect for warmer weather. I was fortunate once again to have the opportunity to be one of the pattern testers. This is my fourth time by the way, I’ve tested Minoru jacket, Renfrew top, and Hollyburn skirt before. Thank you Tasia!

Here’s the description of the pattern: description: “Trench coat features rounded collar and lapel, princess seams, and front pockets. Double-breasted with storm flaps and epaulettes for a classic look. Coat is unlined, with inner seams bound with bias tape for a clean finish. Closes with buttons and a fabric tie belt to create an hourglass silhouette.”

Burberry coat

Tasia recommended to use light to medium weight woven fabrics such as cotton twill or canvas for this coat, but I have something like this in my mind, so my fabric choice was a bit different. As I didn’t find lace fabric similar to the Burberry coat, I used a pretty eyelet fabric in somewhat similar color. The fabric is polyester with eyelet pattern and certain sheen on it.

The store where I bought the fabric sells out of print and end of rolls fabric and there was only 4 m of 110 cm wide of the fabric left while Tasia suggested a lot more even for the size I was making, size 0. I spent some extra time arranging the pattern pieces and successfully managed to squeeze all of them in 4 m of fabric! My alteration was shortening the bodice and hem quite a lot so I think this has contributed to the success.

I underlined the fabric with rayon lining, carefully basted around each pieces by hand since both layers were quite slippery. This process took quite a long time but I’m glad I did it because it really made the sewing process easy. Per the instruction, all the seam allowances are then enclosed in bias binding. I made my own binding from the lining fabric but a store-bought one would make the process faster.
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If you’ve never made a coat before, I really recommend this pattern. At first glance, it may look a bit intimidating with all the pattern pieces, but Tasia has written a very good instruction as usual so everything is quite clear. The coat is unlined, so the sewing process is a lot more faster and easier than lined coat. Of course, who wouldn’t need a classic trenchcoat in their wardrobe? As for me, I’m super happy with my new spring trenchcoat!
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Pattern is Robson coat size 0.

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