Fixing the front crotch curve
My second take on Vogue 2948, the pants pattern used in Craftsy Pant Fitting Techniques by Sandra Betzina. My wearable muslin was not too bad, the thing that I need to do was fixing the horizontal lines across the front.
The first thing I did was releasing the side seams a bit around the waist to hip area. I noticed several lines radiating from the crotch, so the area might need more room. To do this, I reduced the front curve a bit to add more room there.
I moved the zipper to the center back because I feel that the side seam zipper on my first version made the pants hang a bit differently on each side. I also added a couple of side seam pockets, the tiny pockets on the original pattern wouldn’t be too useful for me.
The alterations seemed to work, I think my pants don’t look too bad! My fabric has a bit of stretch in it though, so that might contribute to the finished result.
Pant Fitting Techniques
If you’re interested in taking this class, Craftsy is having Christmas sale until December 25. This class is offered with 50% discount from its original price of USD 49.99. But if you want to join later, you can still get a 40% discount by clicking this link: Pant Fitting Techniques with Sandra Betzina.
Also, wishing you a merry Christmas and happy holiday! \(^_^)/
Pants. Why is it so hard to find the perfect fit? I get how to fit a dress, skirt or even bra, but it seems that I just don’t get pants. Luckily for me, recently I was asked to review a Craftsy online class: Pant Fitting Techniques. I love Craftsy’s sewing classes so this is perfect for me!
The class is about 4 hours, divided into nine chapters, and taught by Power Sewing host Sandra Betzina. It includes Vogue 2948, a pattern for classic trouser with princess seams in sizes A-J, that will be shipped directly by Vogue.
If you live outside US like me, the pattern might need sometime to reach you. I got my pattern about three weeks after I signed up. In the mean time, I spent my time watching all the videos and took notes. No time should be wasted!
Sandra Betzina is a good teacher with wonderful, quirky personality. I would absolutely love to attend her class in person and learn so much from her. She seems to be so full of knowledge that she is eager to share. However I feel that this class is not edited or reviewed really well. Sandra often doesn’t finish her sentences and got distracted by other things that she wants to share rightaway.
She also makes all the fitting adjustments on the same pattern, and as the lesson progresses the pattern is full of lines in different colors that get rather confusing. I also wished that there would be more samples of figure problems, for instance how a swayback looks like in a person, or some before-after samples. I don’t think that the problems lie on Sandra though because all that she’s sharing are valuable knowledge, it’s just that they are not properly delivered. Well, I can just make video notes all over then!
When the pattern arrived, I immediately got to work. I cut my pants in the smallest size, size A. The waist seems to fit me fine, but there were lots of folds and lines below that needed fitting adjustment. Unfortunately I made the mistake of choosing the wrong fabric for my muslin. The fabric is actually really nice, but it ravels quite easily and the tiny houndstooth pattern made it hard to see all the marks that I’ve made on them. Lesson learned!
Here is my pants after the adjustments. I have shortened the length, made swayback adjustment and other fitting adjustments. The princess lines are great! They made it pretty easy to make fitting adjustments and also to understand the adjustments better. I think I might have overfitted them around the hip area because there are some horizontal lines on the front. But overall it is much better than before. This is my wearable muslin though, so I didn’t make the pockets. I still need to adjust the pants to make them fit properly and comfortable before I have the real thing, but I’m so glad to have joined the class. I finally feel that I understand pant fitting better now!
Pant Fitting Techniques
If you are interested in joining the class, Craftsy is offering a 40% off discount for you. You can get the class for USD 29.99 instead of the original price USD 49.99! Just click this link to get your discount: Pant Fitting Techniques with Sandra Betzina.
More Craftsy classes! I know I haven’t even continued on my bombshell dress, and the dress pattern for the Couture Dress has just arrived yesterday, but when I read the latest Craftsy newsletter about their newest sewing class, I just couldn’t resist!
It is The Starlet Suit Jacket, another Sew Retro series by the awesome Gertie Hirsch from New Blog for Better Sewing. Since I’ve subscribed to Craftsy newsletter, the class was at 50% off, only $39.99 instead of $79.99. I would say that it is a great bargain!
The pattern for the suit is designed by Gertie herself and is included in the course, with the skirt pattern as a bonus. It is available in sizes 2-24. In 13 video lessons, Gertie will show how to do a full hand-tailoring on the jacket with pad stitching, bound buttonholes, and welt pockets as well as using fusible interfacing for those who are not ready for hand-tailoring.
Now I don’t know if I will really make the suit as it is, I don’t know where I would need to wear a suit to! But the techniques can be used on many things. I can see a new coat in (not so near) future. How I wish this course was available before I started on my coat!
Usually I’m not very patient with following a video lessons and prefer reading tutorials or books, but Craftsy has such an amazing platform that makes me sit through all these courses. I can put notes throughout the courses as a reminder for myself and ask questions directly to the instructor. I also love reading answers to questions asked by other people. These courses are also always available for unlimited time, so I don’t have to rush my projects now.
Which now left me thinking about taking one more class, Jean-ius! where Kenneth D. King will show how to do reverse engineering from a pair of jeans to create our own pattern. Not only that, he will also show how to do the pockets, zippers, and all those little details about jeans. Ooooh!
You know, so many sewing classes, so little time…. *sigh*
//courses thumbnails from Craftsy.
Bombshell dress muslin - backside
This is the backside of my muslin. I have scoliosis and my curved spine can be seen clearly here. This might be the first time I ever photographed my backside deliberately.
The last time I saw pictures of my backside is when I was 15 years old. They were laid on the table in front of me and I got a few disheartening comments (parents can be so inconsiderate!) about it. I got traumatized and avoided fitted clothing since then. Until now.
I must say that sewing and blogging about sewing have helped me to see human bodies differently. I make muslins and put them on, look into the mirror and try to see what needs to be fixed. This process has slowly taught me to know my own body better. Usually I just made some baby doll or loose dresses quickly and threw them over me, feeling sure that what needs to be hidden is hidden.
After looking at so many creations all over the net, I suddenly can see that there are a lot of variations in human bodies. Sometimes I see that ‘oh her left shoulder is a bit higher than the right one’ or ‘her waist is almost the same width as her hip’. Not to nitpick their bodies, just for my personal observation in order to learn good fitting.
Then I see that none of these flaws affect the clothes. Well, of course they affect how the clothes hang on their bodies, but a pretty dress worn by a pretty lady who posed proudly for her own creation is still a pretty dress nonetheless.
My spine is curved. But they look okay. Sometimes they hurt, and that’s what I need to be working on instead of spending energy thinking about hiding them. I am happy to know that what started as a curiosity whether I was able make the whole wardrobe for myself has turned into a journey of self-discovery.
Bombshell dress muslin - second fitting
Uh, anyway… as I was saying in the title, I did the alteration for the bust cup as I’ve planned in the previous post, and it seems to be working out!
The right cup in the picture is altered while the left cup is unaltered. I pinched the excess fabric on the left cup to show how much that I have eliminated.
Now I need to think about the skirt part. I don’t really like the sarong skirt on the original pattern but still haven’t decided what to make instead. Maybe a simple gathered skirt with sideseam pockets!
Apparently the repair was faster than expected, the repair shop sent my sewing machine back yesterday! The big box arrived in the morning and I danced happily all day. No more machineless week! I used it right away to finish my husband’s jeans. They only need to be hemmed now and I’m waiting for my husband to come home so I can measure the length of the legs.
Meanwhile, I started to work on my bombshell dress. The smallest size of the pattern is 36, which is still too big for me. So I resized it to 96% of the original size and cut size 36. This is one of the advantages of using PDF pattern! The fabric is some purple linen with white floral pattern as I didn’t have any plain fabric.
Bombshell dress – muslin
I think the muslin fits quite well except for the top of the bustline. You can see that I have pinned them with red pins on each side.
Working in my computer, I slash open the upper cup pattern and overlap the top. Naturally this will add more curve to the bottom line of this piece so I should check again if it will affect the overall cup shape.
- Pattern piece.
- Slashing the pattern.
- Overlapping both sides about 1.4 cm and draw the new bustline.
- Altered pattern.
And that is enough fun for today! Do any of you also take this online sewing course?