Bellatrix blazer – Papercut patterns

Bellatrix blazer Bellatrix blazer

You might have seen this blazer several times if you follow me in Instagram. This is my new favorite jacket, the Bellatrix blazer by Papercut Patterns!

Actually I always thought that I was not a blazer person. Maybe a bomber jacket or coat person, but not a blazer one. However, after seeing so many different version of this blazer around the blogosphere, I got the urge to at least try making one. I didn’t want to buy a whole supply for something that I might not wear daily though, so I turned to my store bought clothes to find something.

Before After: Bellatrix blazer!

It is initially a blanket coat from Zara that I bought six years ago when I first came to Japan. Also the first coat that I ever bought! The fabric is wool but due to the blanket style, it was not very warm. I liked it since it was quite comfortable and perfect for the end of winter days. People seemed to like it as well and it often got compliments. But after six years I think everybody in my neighborhood already knew me as that Indonesian lady in blanket coat so it was time to move on!

I decided not to use the wide black stripes around the bottom of the coat as the fabric already had different color on each side. This means that I had to be really careful placing the pattern pieces on the limited fabric. It was not enough for the sleeves so I just use the original two pieces sleeves and alter the sleeve caps to match the Bellatrix. The lining is also from the original coat lining. The button was from another old clothes. The only thing I had to buy for this blazer was the thread!
Bellatrix blazer Bellatrix blazerBellatrix blazerBellatrix blazer

I cut size XXS on bust and XXS on waist. Here’s my alteration list:

  • shortened the bodice across neckline 1 cm
  • shortened the sleeve cap accordingly
  • shortened the bodice around waist 2.5 cm
  • swayback adjustment 1 cm
  • alter sleeves to two piece sleeves

I love the welt pockets and the instructions! It is very brilliant, the pockets are on the waist seamline so you don’t have to cut the fabric. The only difficulty I had to face was making the buttonhole because the layer is quite thick. Thanks to this tutorial by Sunni from A Fashionable Stitch, I was able to make a handworked buttonhole. Glad to learn something new!

Bellatrix blazer Bellatrix blazer

 

Things that I need to do differently next time:

  • When the fabric is this thick, the undercollar gets too bulky and doesn’t give enough space for the outer collar to roll properly. Next time I will cut the undercollar a tiny bit smaller around the edge.
  • The lining pieces need to be a bit bigger than the fashion fabric to allow body movement. You can see that the back of the jacket has several folds and wrinkles because the lining is restricting it.
  • I actually like the blazer opened better than closed so maybe I don’t need to bother about making closure next time.

Despite all of these, the blazer got me converted to a blazer person! I wear it very often, along with my bomber jacket. So it seems that Papercut Patterns and me are getting along very well!

Bellatrix blazer

Today we went to the park for a picnic under the cherry blossom tree. There were many people there so it was a good exercise for our foster dog Shiitake as he is very scared of people. He was also scared of my husband who took the pictures and always tried to run from him, that is why he never faced the camera. Although he was nervous and always stayed close to me, I think he enjoyed the day after all!

Pattern is Bellatrix blazer by Papercut Patterns, size XXS on bust and hip, XS on waist.

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