Remember this planned project? I finally managed to finish one of them, right when summer is definitely over. Apparently I’m not very good at planning projects.
Anyway! The dress is finished and I love it! The fabric is Juicy Couture silk with pinkish background and black heart prints all over and the pattern is Vogue 1288 from Badgley Mischka Platinum – Vogue American Designer line. From the pattern envelope: “MISSES’ DRESS: Close-fitting, lined dress (fitted through hips) has overlay, contrast bias trim and invisible back zipper. Bias binding (lining) finishes seams.”
I cut size 6 on bust and waist, tapered to size 8 on hip. As usual, I shortened the bodice and hem and made a swayback adjustment before cutting the pattern. This pattern is quite simple, it is a basically a sheath dress with waist-length overlay.
I didn’t follow the pattern instructions when sewing the dress.The dress on the pattern envelope is made of sequined chiffon with contrast trim along the neckline, armholes, and hem of both the overlay and the skirt, which required specific techniques of sewing. I didn’t use contrast trim, so my way of sewing the dress was quite simpler.
First, I attached the side seams of both the outer fabric and lining. Then the outer fabric and lining were attached at the neckline and armholes, leaving about 5 cm gap on top of the straps. The seam allowances were clipped and the dress was turned right side out. Then I sewed the shoulders and slipstitched the lining to the dress. Actually it is similar to the way I sew a reversible bag.
The hem of the overlay was overlocked, then folded inside and topstitched. All seam allowances -except for french seams for the overlay- were finished with overlocker instead of bias binding as the pattern instructions suggested.
This is my first time sewing with silk, and I happily realized that it was not that difficult! Here’s a helpful post on Mood blog that I read beforehand. In addition, I also used fabric stabilizer spray to help me dealing with the slippery fabric. Mine is made in Japan, but I think it is similar to Sullivans Spray Fabric Stabilizer.
My fabric snagged a bit, indicating that the needle was not small enough. Also, silk is so delicate that sometimes I didn’t realize there was an additional layer underneath the ones being sewn. I spent sometime freeing the hem of my dress that got caught on the neckline. But other than that, there were no major hair-pulling moments.
I just love how I’m feeling wearing this dress. The overlay is flowing gracefully with every movement, as you can see in the picture of me pretending to walk against the wind from the fan. And silk is so soft to the touch. This won’t be the last time I’m sewing with silk!
Pattern is Vogue 1288, size 6 on bust and waist, size 8 on hip.