Culottes and tops

Cropped top and culottes Cropped top and culottes

I haven’t sewed for quite a while because it was too cold so I’m happy that it is now getting warmer everyday! This cropped top is part of Burdastyle February Flagship kit that contains about 40 patterns.

I printed the pattern at 92% as I usually do for Burdastyle patterns, not realizing that it is already a petite pattern! So I have to add the length back to the pattern. I should have used size 17 in normal printed size (100%). If you’re not a petite, this top might be too short as it is already the perfect length for a petite person.

Cropped top and culottes Cropped top and culottes

Cropped top Culottes

The fabric is some medium-weight cotton with Japanese style pattern. I think I bought it about 5 years ago to make a shirt for Sidra but then he didn’t like the fabric…. Anyway, the top is very simple with only three pattern pieces. The neckline and underarm were finished with bias binding. The original pattern has the back completely open, only connected by a button and loop, I changed it so it is closed with an opening at the top.

I also made a pair of culottes with this Burda pattern, as usual in size 38 printed at 92%. The culottes has two front big pleats, back darts, zipper fly, and a couple of side seam pockets. I hemmed the culottes at midi length.

Cropped top and culottes Cropped top and culottes

At first I wasn’t so sure about wearing culottes as this is a new silhouette for me, both culottes and the midi length. I like them, they are more comfortable than a skirt or a pair of pants. My husband said that they look like silat (lndonesian martial arts) pants though!

Striped T-shirt and culottes Striped T-shirt and culottes

Since I was already at the sewing machine, I also whipped up a quick T-shirt with some striped jersey. The pattern is based on Ensis tee by Papercut patterns. The top parts are connected back to the bottom parts so it becomes a regular T-shirt pattern. Then I cut a curved form on the front part to make the stripes get distorted a bit at the seamlines.

It is still too cold to wear these tops without a jacket or coat now but I’m ready for spring!
Striped T-shirt and culottes Striped T-shirt

Striped T-shirt and culottes Striped T-shirt and culottes

Top pattern is Cap Sleeve Cropped Top 02/2015 #127 (PDF) – part of February Burdastyle Flagship kit, size 19 printed at 92%.
Culottes pattern is Wide Patterned Culottes 03/2015 #126A – Burdastyle(PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.
T-shirt pattern is Ensis Tee – Papercut patterns, size XXS (altered).

Selfish Sewing Week – Ensis tee

Ensis tee Ensis teeSummer is over and Fall is coming! It means that I have to start preparing for transitional clothes before the weather gets too cold. It also happens that this week is Selfish Sewing Week – 2014 Fall edition! The perfect time to think about what I want to make for myself and not feeling guilty for not even starting on my husband’s jeans or make another jeans that my son requested.

Rebecca Taylor velvet yoke top

Rebecca Taylor velvet yoke top

I’m very honored to be one of featured stitchers once again. I was supposed to make the Holly jumpsuit by By Hand London but the pattern hasn’t reached me until now. Nothing to fear because I have my reliable Papercut Patterns!

The pattern is Ensis tee that I got as part of my Anima shorts winner prize. I have never made this pattern before but my experience with Papercut Paterns is always satisfactory so I didn’t have any doubt when cutting my fabric without making any muslin first.

The fabric is grey wool and acrylic blend jersey, and black stretch velvet for the yoke parts. I was inspired by this Rebecca Taylor velvet yoke top. I made size XXS and shortened the bodice about 2 cm. I also shortened the neckband to about 75% of the neckline to ensure a closer fit. The tee was made entirely on my overlocker except for finishing the hem.

 

Ensis tee Ensis tee

Ensis tee Ensis tee

As always the instructions are wonderful and the drafting is perfect. The result is exactly how I wanted it to be! It is subtle, versatile, and very wearable. Also, black velvet is so hard to photograph! I think these photos can’t really show how wonderful this tee is. This will be my new favorite to wear this fall!

Ensis tee Ensis tee

What are you sewing for yourself this week? Don’t forget to check out Rachael’s post about Selfish Sewing Week and enter the raffle for a chance of fabulous prizes!

Pattern is Ensis tee by Papercut Patterns, size XXS.

SJ tee and Sandra jeans

SJ tee and Sandra jeans SJ tee and Sandra jeans
These are my newest favorite items of clothing! They were actually finished about a month ago and I’ve been wearing them a lot ever since.

The top was made with the merino wool from the Anima pants winner prize that I got last month. I thought the sewing pattern should come from Papercut Patterns as well, so I bought the SJ tee PDF pattern. I love the instant-ness of PDF pattern but Papercut patterns packagings are so cute so I kinda regret not buying the paper version.

SJ tee is a slouchy fit tee with the option of a long or short fitted raglan sleeve with wide cuff. It has full length and cropped length options and short or long sleeves options. I made size XXS in full length with short sleeves options.

SJ tee and Sandra jeans SJ tee and Sandra jeans

I made petite alteration by shortening the bodice length 2 cm above waist and 1 cm across the raglan lines. This alteration also shortened the neckline so it is not too wide for me.

When finishing the neckline, I cut the neck band about 75% shorter from the neckline. The neck band is attached to the neckline using overlocker, stretched slighly to fit. Then I topstitched from the right side using zigzag stitches set on 0.5 width and 3 on length. The result is a neckline that is not too wide and ‘hugs’ the body.

Waistband

Elastic as waistband interfacing

The jeans pattern is Sandra narrow leg jeans by Style Arc. This is a classic narrow legs jeans with contoured waistband slightly below waist. Fabric is dark denim with little stretch.

As usual the instructions for Style Arc patterns are pretty brief, but it shouldn’t be a problem if you are familiar with making jeans.

I did an experiment with the waistband by using wide elastic as interfacing. The elastic is attached to the waisband seam allowance using zigzag stitch without being stretched at all.

Then I finished the waistband and topstitched as usual. I believe this adds stability to the waitsband and preventing it from being stretched too fast. You can see that the waistband is slightly wrinkled when not being worn, but smoothed out on my body.

Other alterations are swayback adjustment and lots of leg shortening.

 

SJ tee and Sandra jeans
SJ tee and Sandra jeans
SJ tee and Sandra jeans SJ tee and Sandra jeans

I’m totally happy with these two! The top is very comfortable and the neckline is just right. I love the sleeves cuff because they keep me from being exposed when I raise my hand to hang on the train handles. Well, in case I forget to shave or something….

The jeans are the the best fit pants that I’ve made so far! Unfortunately I made a slight mistake that I realized too late. Can you guess what it is? I was waiting for the bus and going to put a coin to my coin pocket, but it wasn’t there! Turned out I have stitched the coin pocket to the left side instead of the right. I have thought about taking it off altogether but then decided to keep it there as a reminder for my next jeans making. Or maybe I will take it off anyway because I keep reaching for the non-existent coin pocket….

SJ tee and Sandra jeans SJ tee and Sandra jeans

Top pattern is SJ tee by Papercut Patterns, (PDF) size XXS.
Jeans pattern is Sandra narrow leg jeans by Style Arc, size 6.

Coppélia Cardi – Papercut Patterns

Coppélia cardi Coppélia cardi

You might remember these Anima shorts that I made last month, they won the Anima pants competition in the short length category! So happy! I chose the knit pack as the prize and they arrived a couple of weeks ago. Thank you Papercut Patterns!

The Knit pack prize

The Knit pack

The knit pack includes the Coppélia and the Ensis Tee patterns, and 1.6 metres each of three merino wool fabrics. I have never sewed with merino wool before and they are sooo wonderful. They are soft and warm while being thin, and glide easily under the sewing foot. They also dry very fast and has wonderful stretch recovery. So far I’ve used two of the fabrics and this cardi is one of them.

I have been eyeing the Coppélia cardi since I saw it around the blogosphere, so it is just so fortunate that now I have both the pattern and the fabric! This is the cropped version in size XXS, the only pattern alterations made were shortening the bodice and sleeves about 2.5 cm.

All the seams were finished with serger except for topstitching around the bottom hem and the side hole for the ties. The instructions are very clear and straightforward, and they made the sewing process quite fast, I finished this cardi in less than an hour. A note to take was to start stitching to neck band from the center back while pulling it down to one side, then went back to the center back down to the other side. I love that this made the neck band balanced on either side.

Coppélia cardi Coppélia cardi

This is actually a color that I rarely choose, but surprisingly it doesn’t look too bad on me, does it? I love how the cardi hugs my body and that there is no neck gaping. I won’t change anything if I made this the next time, maybe make the full length version but there is no need for further alteration!

Coppélia cardi Coppélia cardi

So far this cardi is the fifth Papercut Patterns that I made (more exactly is the sixth – there’s another one being washed) and I love them all! I never had to make too many alterations and they always look good and easy to wear. Looks like we get along very well. Also, have you seen their newest pattern, the Clover dress?? I’m looking at my stash right now looking for the perfect fabric!

Coppélia cardi Coppélia cardi

Pattern is Coppélia by Papercut Patterns size XXS.
Fabric is merino wool from The Fabric Store.

Anima pants and Scout tee

Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants

I’ve been wanting a pair of easy pants for daily wear when these knit pants were popping out everywhere. Turned out that Papercut patterns is having a competition for one of their pattern, the Anima pants, and that’s why there are lots of people making these pants.

Everyone’s version look so good that I had to order the PDF pattern and made myself a pair. You can also buy the paper version of this pattern, I love the instant-ness of PDF patterns. From the pattern description in the website: “A must-have staple item for those times when you need the perfect balance of casual and cool. Slim leg pant with elasticated waist, drawstring, faux fly front and side pockets. Can be made full, knee length with or without cuffs or as shorts.” 

The fabric is medium weight cotton jersey in the color navy. I made size XXS with no alteration except for shortening the legs, as I’m not tall. You might want to check the length of the pants before attaching the cuffs. I like mine to fall just below the ankle.

Sewing the pants was just as easy as it looked. I did have difficulty when sewing the waistband though. The instruction suggested to stitch the top edges of both waistband and elastic together, then fold it over to the inside and topstitch from the outside, stretching as you sew.

Somehow I wasn’t able to do the topstitching as neatly as I want. I suspected that it is because I don’t have foot pedal, my sewing machine has to be turned on and off with a button (gasp!). So everytime I stretch and sew, I have to release the stretching to turn off the machine and it skewed the fabric. Well, after all these years of sewing I suppose should have bought a foot pedal….

Aside from the waistband (which is conveniently covered by the the top), the pants are exactly what I had in mind! I’ve been having lots of success with Papercut patterns, so I’m very happy.

Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants
The top is Scout woven tee made with beautiful linen by naniIRO. The pattern of the fabric is called ‘Water window’. Such a perfect name, isn’t it? They remind me of watercolor painting exercise. The fabric needed a simple pattern that can showcase the beautiful color and I think the Scout pattern is perfect for this purpose.

Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants

After I finished the top, I wore it rightaway and loved it so much that I wanted another in knit fabric. The only difference from the woven version is the neckline finishes. The woven Scout was finished with bias binding while the knit Scout was finished with folded strip of fabric. Here’s the tutorial by Jen for sewing the knit version of Scout tee.

Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants

When I bought the naniIRO fabric for my top, I came across this interesting poly jersey fabric with raised texture. I think it will look beautiful for a winter cardigan but I wanted to make something with it for summer, like another Anima pants! I was only able to get 50 cm of the fabric so it became a pair of shorts. A pair of pants with this fabric for summer would be too hot anyway.

For the second version, I attached the waistband in different way. I folded the waistband over the wide elastic and serge the folded edge to the top edge of the pants. My serger has foot pedal so everything went quicker and -more importantly- neater.

When Shake saw me setting up the tripod and camera, she immediately posted herself in front of the camera. For some reason, she thought that I held some treats in my hand (it was just the camera remote) so here she is in every picture. Of course she got some treats after all because who can’t resist that face?! Also, a brief apperance by Sidra but he didn’t want to show his face 😀

Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants Scout tee and Anima pants

Top pattern is Scout Tee by Grainline studio (PDF), size XXS.
Pants pattern is Anima by Papercut Patterns(PDF), size 0.

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