First of all, I want to say thank you for all the sweet wishes on my birthday post! I feel so happy!
You might have seen this coat in that particular post. I have just finished it a day before my birthday. It has been a while since I made a winter coat, the previous one was this Pistachio coat that I made two years ago using coat pattern from the Burdastyle Sewing Handbook. I love that coat and have been wearing it a lot but it is a bit fitted so I can’t wear thick sweater or too much layers underneath.
Recently I’ve been seeing oversized coats everywhere and I love the look. The shapes are usually quite boxy and the lines are influenced by menswear. The boxy shape allows lots of layers underneath while still keeping it comfortable.
Since I was quite happy with my military jacket, I used another Burdastyle pattern to make my coat. This time the pattern is Wool Long Coat 08/2012 #101B. Like before, I printed it at 92% and cut size 38. If you’re curious on how I came up with this number, here’s the explanation:
- – my normal Burdastyle size is 34 with bust 31.5″ and my height is 60″.
- – Burdastyle pattern is drafted for height 66″. Shrank by 92%, this number became 60.95″ that is close to my height.
- – Since size 34 is now 92% too small for me, I need to choose a larger size.
- – The normal bust for size 38 is 34.75″, and it becomes 31.97″. when shrank by 92%.
One might ask, why should I go through all this trouble instead of just shortening the pattern? Patterns drafted for taller body usually have details that are not proportional to petite body. The collar might be a tad too big, or the neckline might be too low, and so on. By shrinking the pattern, these details are shrinked as well and become more proportionate.
After shrinking the pattern, I usually lower the armhole a bit because armholes for petites are usually not that much different as for taller bodies. I also shortened the hem of this coat a bit more. It is always best to make a muslin first of course, but I didn’t make one because I have used these alterations on Burdastyle patterns several times with good results (and I also don’t like making muslins!).
The fabric is black and dark navy wool that I found in a small fabric store for USD7. It has subtle big plaid pattern that was a real pain to match because they almost couldn’t be seen when closer! I considered using some fun fabric for the lining but settled on ordinary black instead because I want this coat to be versatile for all my clothes.
Like all Burdastyle patterns, the instructions for this pattern is quite brief so I made several improvisation. The whole front pieces are block-fused, as are the facings, hem, sleeves hem and top part of the sleeves. I added a partial back stay to the back pieces using a piece of flannel. The collar roll lines are reinforced with a strip of interfacing. The undercollar was cut on bias so it would roll easily.
This is a simple coat though -the pockets are on the seam lines, no sleeves slit or back slit, and the closure are snap-on buttons-, so the actual sewing was quite straightforward. I spent more time fusing the interfacing, pressing, and handstitching than using the sewing machine.
Wool coat, inside outAll the seam allowances are catchstitched to the fabric or interfacing. Before I sewed the lining, I tried on the coat with a couple of shoulder pads to determine the location for the pads. Pressing is important in each step! Fortunately the fabric was very easy to shape and behaved very well under steam iron.
After attaching the lining, the front edge and collar are basted and pressed. The upper collar and under collar are catchsticthed from the inside along the roll lines. Then I handstitched a row of pick stitches along the edge so it would roll to the appropriate side. I quite love how the tiny stitches disappear into the thick fabric.
The coat turned out just the way I wanted it to be! The fit is boxy and the length is just right. It is quite warm so I can wear it with a long sleeved T-shirt underneath. When the weather gets colder I can wear more layers!
The last couple projects that I have made with Burdastyle patterns turned out quite well, and I’m very happy about it. I kinda want to sew another coat -perhaps in bright color-, but how many coats can one woman have?
Pattern is Wool Long Coat 08/2012 #101B from Burdastyle (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.
51 Comments
Hi Novita, I just found your blog and I love it! I am particularly impressed by this wonderful woolen coat!
Dear Novita,
usually I get inspired by creations on blogs, now I am just jealous:) Your alterations, the fabric choice…just perfect. I wish I could buy this coat in stores.
All the best, Sue
Thank you so much Sue! :)
Belated birthday wishes. By the way, your coat looks great!! Good choice of fabric too !!
Thank you Yvette!
Waow, just I LOVE your coat !
Thank you!! I always love seeing all your creations!
Gorgeous coat! Happy late birthday. I cannot believe you can be in your 40’s as you don’t look out of your teens!!! :)
Aww you’re too nice! :)
Absolutely fantastic! Your work looks very professional and the coat seems just right for the weather. Suits you so well. Looks on trend. Everything is perfect…
Thank you Yoshimi!
I love seeing the details. A coat looks like lots of work but would be so satisfying. I really want to make one! How did you learn? :)
I learned from the internet. There’s many tutorials and detailed pictures about tailoring that I found via Google. Maybe someday I will take a proper tailoring class so I don’t have to stumble around everytime :)
I say one never has enough coats! The coat looks so cosy; I’d spend hours walking outside just to wear it!
I will do that! :D
Your coat is gorgeous. Love the boxy design and your fabric.
Thank you!
Me too! Love the fit!
This is just perfection!! That plaid is so SO good, and it fits the boxy shape of this jacket really perfectly. Awesome awesome job!
Thank you Sallie!
Novita, I LOVE this on you! It’s so great!!!!! The plaid you used was the perfect choice!
I found the fabric folded in a dusty box. I was lucky!
Wow, you are so talented, Beautiful coat! I also liked looking back at the pistachio coat and seeing you with the long hair. You look lovely with long or short hair.
Aww thank you! I used to always have short hair but my son didn’t allow me to cut my hair for 5 years. Last year he finally learned to lessen his attachment to my hair :D
This coat is gorgeous!! Thank you for showing the insides… that’s almost my favorite part! I have this pattern but haven’t made it yet. I’d considered making the Gerard by RDC, but I too have pretty good luck with Big 4 patterns and making my standard alterations… so I’m happy to see how great this coat looks on you. Nicely done!
Actually I have considered Gerard by RDC too, as I’ve seen lots of gorgeous versions around the net. But I have such good results with Burda patterns and didn’t want to risk making a coat with a new pattern :)
I love your explanation of how you you made the coat fit. I am 59″ tall and I am saving your post for future reference. Your coat is lovely and fits great! It shows small persons need not be swamped by a boxy coat!!
That is why I prefer PDF patterns than ordinary patterns, because I can shrink them all! :D
Paired with the big camel snood, it is just winter perfect. Great job!
I’m ready for winter!
I absolutely love this! I wanted to make this coat when the pattern first came out, but I couldn’t get my head around the instructions. Your version has reminded me what a great pattern it is, so I might try again next year. Great colour too
You should try making it, it is a great pattern!
Your coat is so very beautiful. I am tackling my first coat project this season and your tips will be so helpful.
Good luck with your coat! You will have fun making it :)
beautiful coat! having a similar one (also burda’s) on my cutting table right now (although, i kind of like your fabric better than mine b&w houndstooth one)
Oh houndstooth fabric sounds awesome! Can’t wait to see it!
Love the boxy shape! It looks great on you.
Thank you Bella!
Beautiful coat Novita! Makes me feel like sewing a coat now :-)!
You should! It’s coat making time!
Beautiful coat and I like the simple lines to show off that fabric! Never too many coats!!!
I agree that there is never to many coats! My wardrobe space don’t quite agree though… :P
This is fantastic! I love the giant plaid and the boxy shape. Great idea with the shrinking of patterns too- it keeps everything in proportion!
Actually I learned it from Miho, a Japanese blogger who owns Tamanegi Kobo (a Japanese pattern store). She’s also a petite and her clothes are always fit her well!
A woman should definetly have more of these, any color she pleases! Sewing-envy (7 dollars, really???)
There is a fabric store in my neighborhood that sells out of print and end of rolls fabric in very cheap prices. The fabrics are folded and put on dusty shelves and boxes. I always have a good time there! :)
there is never too many coats for a lady!! :) I’ve recently caught the oversized look bug too and yours look fabulous!
Maybe I’ll make another coat next year then! One coat for each year! :P
It’s gorgeous! I love that maxi plaid and as you said it’ll go with everything. I love it when they put the pockets in princess seams: it’s smart pattern making!
It is also the easiest way to make pockets! I don’t have to worry too much about them looking neat :D