I was just heading out of the fabric store in Shinjuku after finished shopping when a woman entered. Suddenly my attention got caught on the military jacket that she wore. I was never too interested in military jackets before. It seems like everyone is wearing them, at least here in Tokyo. So I was curious on why this woman’s jacket was interesting to me.
I followed her for a while, stealing glances at the details of her jacket. She walked around the first floor, then went up to the second floor, and then the third floor. After we reached the fourth floor, I decided that I have got enough information. I was sure that she didn’t know I was following her though (or maybe she was just good at pretending to not notice me!).
I concluded several points that made her jacket interesting to me:
- – Structured jacket
- – Medium weight fabric
- – Deep color
- – Crisp and simple details
In short, her jacket looks more like a real military jacket than just a casual jacket in army green color. I then went straight back to the first floor and bought 2 metres of cotton twill in dark army green before heading home.
I tend to get obsessed over things so I apologize if my stalker-ish behavior bothers you! Anyway, I got very excited over this jacket and began to look for a PDF pattern so I could begin to work rightaway.
I found the pattern in Burdastyle, Belted Military Jacket 5/2010 #127. The description of the jacket: “Military inspired details put this jacket a cut above the rest. Structured lapels, crisp pockets, and a wide waist-cinching belt command attention in khaki.”
Before starting each project, I like to put all the fabric and necessary notions in one plastic bag. Sometimes I still wasn’t sure which notions that I would use, and I would put all the choices in the bag. It helps me to remember the things that I have and to not waste time looking for a button or zipper in the middle of sewing.
I realize that many people don’t like the fact that Burdastyle patterns don’t have seam allowances, but I find it convenient because the stitching lines can be clearly seen. I also like to add different width of seam allowances in different places, so I have to trim or add the seam allowances on other patterns. With Burdastyle paterns, I can mark the seam allowances directly on fabric using tailor’s chalk. For this jacket, it is 1.5 cm allowance on the topstitched part and 1 cm on the other parts.
Since I’m petite, I always have to make several alterations to the patterns that I use. With PDF patterns that have no seam allowance like this, I often cheated and just shrank the pattern. I printed this jacket pattern at 92% and cut size 38. The armhole is lowered a bit to compensate the shrinkage.
Unfortunately my fabric is not enough for the jacket, so I didn’t make the belt and had to use black fabric for the undercollar. It doesn’t really matter though as I plan to wear the jacket without a belt. I still stitched the belt loops though, just in case.
Other changes that I made are adding cotton twill tape ‘labels’, omitting the collar buttons, and making gusseted pockets instead of patch pockets for the lower ones. I just bought a Japanese sewing book about different techniques of sewing pockets, one of them is making these gusseted pockets. I’m quite happy with the result!
I love how my jacket turned out! I wore them last weekend when we went to Shimokitazawa. Sidra and I went to a hair salon to get haircuts. My hairdresser gave my new jacket a compliment!
Pattern is Belted Military Jacket 5/2010 #127 from Burdastyle (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%.
62 Comments
WOW Novita this is so fantastic!! I love your detail work and the color/fabric is spot on. I want one!
Thnk you Kristin! You should make one, it is a great pattern! :)
Fabulous jacket! Love the gusseted pockets!!! Will be looking for the Japanese book for sewing different types of pockets!! Thanks for the tip on reducing the pattern. I wonder if it will work for modifying Burda Tall patterns to regular.
I believe it will work! You may need to make a muslin first to make sure :)
Wow! beautifully constructed!
Thank you Natasha! :)
I loved your tip to turn pdf patterns (with no seam allowance) to petite size! Just to confirm, 38 is your normal size, or you also chose a different size to complement pattern zoom reduction?
Hi Rita, my normal size is 34 with bust 31.5″ and height 60″.
Since Burdastyle pattern is drafted for height 66″, I reduce it by 92% which resulted in 60.95″ that is close to my height. To compensate the reduction, I have to choose size 38 that have bust size 34.75″. When it is reduced by 92%, it becomes 31.97″.
I hope my explanation is clear! :)
This looks amazing! You are always blowing me away with how awesome and professional looking your garments are! I love it!
Thank you Heather!
Novita!!! This is FABULOUS! Your pockets are so perfect, and the twill tape details are fantastic!!! SO GOOD!
I considered writing ‘US ARMY’ or something on the tape but decided to just left them bare. I think it is better that they look ‘unidentified’ :P
Incredible work. Your jacket is beautiful. If i saw you on the street i would follow you too :>
I really like it when that happens, when you just get obsessed with an idea and then bring it to life. I wish my sewing skills were as good as yours.
Also like the tip about the plastic bag to organize notions. Neat!
Thank you for following lol!
I used to waste so much time tracking notions, that is why I came up with this solution :)
i’ve had this jacket on my list for a long time! love how yours came out. all the details are perfect! i’m with you on liking burda and other non-seam allowance patterns. i prefer to vary my SA’s to avoid trimming away fabric later… saves so much time!
That is also why I like Japanese patterns. They use 1 cm seam allowance instead of the usual 1.5 cm and also shows the stitching lines if I prefer to cut there. Making it easier to alter too!
I love this jacket! Fab job! I also get some inspirations from strangers!
Thank you! Inspiratiosn are everywhere! :)
Great jacket the finishing is ace. How lovely to make something you’ve seen on the street. I’m with you on the furtive peeking to catch design details on strangers clothes.
Thank you! :)
This is beautiful! Very well sewn and fits you perfectly. I kind of do the same thing when I see someone with clothes I like, secretly lined up behind her while waiting train to see the clothes construction…lol
And it can be embarrassing if the details are placed on some unfortunate parts. It’s like ‘oh no I’m not staring at you cleavage! I just want to know how to construct a V-neck band!’ Lol
Do you mind me asking what the book on pockets is that you used? I have Japanese one on drafting and adapting tops from a sloper that I got earlier this year – it’s brilliant. IIcould definitely use one on pockets! Fantastic jacket, by the way, beautiful details as always.
It’s this book by Mizuno Keiko. Very helpful!
This is absolutely stunning! I love it!
Glad that you like it :)
What a great jacket! I love it.
Thank you Michelle!
Fab jacket – and those pockets look lovely, roomy and comfy for hands to snuggle into :-)!
I want to be able to put my hands in there, that is why I made those pockets. It’s getting cold here!
This is marvelous! I love all the details – especially those gusset pockets – much nicer than just plain old patch pockets! I also love that you took your inspiration from a real person you saw out and about.
Haha I do that all the time! Just the other day I found myself staring at someone’s crotch because I want to see the topstitching details of his fly front :P
Came out fantastic !~! Your sewing skills are of the highest caliber; I learn so much from each of your posts; thank you.
Thank you so much Lynda! Let’s learn from each other :)
Love the black undercollar, it’s a nice detail!
I’m glad that the black undercollar looks like a planned detail instead of the fact that I was running out of fabric! :P
Gorgeous jacket. It’s both utilitarian and super chic, which is such a great combo!
Thank you Sara!
Very nice! Where is the fabric store in Shinjuku? I’m headed to Tokyo in December and I’m not sure I’ll have time to go to the Nippori fabric town. Thanks!
The store name is Okadaya, it is two buildings and seven floors of fabric and craft supplies!
what a perfect jacket! love all the details!
Thank you!
Amazing!! I love that you secretly stalked someone just to read the details of their jacket. I am also jealous of your four storey fabric store!
Actually the store is seven floors! I always feel overwhelmed after spending a day there :D
This jacket looks fabulous. All those details really make it look unique and stylish.
It was fun planning and making all the details!
The jacket looks great! Very authentic & stylish.
Thank you! I’m very happy about it :)
This is amazing! It looks so professional, like it came out of a high-end department store or something, and cost a lot of money. Your skills are just incredible, and this jacket is perfection.
Aww you’re too nice Kristy! :)