A couple of weeks ago I got the chance to meet Ying from Tailor Made Blog, who was in vacation in Japan. If you love making lingerie, you might have known or even bought from her lingerie supplies shop. Of course she has very kindly gifted me several lingerie supplies, including this pretty white stretch lace! Thank you Ying!
The bra pattern is Merckwaerdigh BHS10 , this pattern is such a steal because you get 5 bra patterns in one package. This time I use the soft laced bra pattern in size 30E. The pattern actually doesn’t have size 30E, so I use size 32D and shortened the back band.
The whole cups are stabilized with transparent white tricot. I put clear elastic on the lace edges of the neckline and the power bar. The underarm is finished with foldover elastic. The straps are not adjustable, I put the bra on and mark the length before stitching them down on the back band.
The panties are based on my favorite panties pattern, Merckwaerdigh low rider. I added center front seam and center back seam so the lace edges can be used around the leg. The panties are lined with soft power net. I had thought about how to finish the edges of the power net, but then I decided to simply leave it hang loose.
I’m quite happy with the result! When I decided on the pattern, I thought that the bra would be for home wear only. My first version of this pattern was very comfortable but doesn’t have enough support because I didn’t line the stretch lace. With fully lined cups, this white bra turned out to have enough support with nice shaping. One thing that I would change is the placement of the back straps, they are too far from each other at the moment. Because it doesn’t have foam nor underwire, this bra is very light while still comfortable. I’m planning my second one at the moment!
This is the second dress that I made from the fabrics that I bought in Indonesia. The beautiful print and color combination caught my eyes immediately. The price is also a bargain at about USD5/meter.
The fabric is stretch polyester and quite slinky. I knew that I wanted to make a dress with it, preferably with as little seamlines as possible so the beautiful print wouldn’t be cut. So I was quite happy when I stumbled upon Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns, a simple maxi dress with an interesting shape. It has diamond shape with two waist ties and back vent. The dress has a couple of sleeve dart on the front and a couple of back darts.
Named patterns are designed for the height of 172 cm / 5’8″, which is quite far from 150 cm / 4’11” that is my height. I used the same way that I usually do for Burdastyle patterns, printing the pattern at 92% and cut size 38. I found that this is the best way to make the pattern petite for me. Further alteration were shortening the bodice about 1 cm and the skirt about 5 cm. Everything is about making the pattern shorter!
Eventually all the alterations worked quite well. The dress is now at the right proportion to my body. Sewing process was quite simple. The most lengthy process was probably making the ties since it has to be lightly interfaced and turned out. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding.
I find that the dress can be worn in several ways. With the ties wrapped around for a tighter fit or loosely tied for a looser fit. You can even knot the ties at the front or the back for a different look. A very versatile dress.
One thing that I don’t really like about the dress has nothing to do with the pattern at all. Since the fabric is polyester, it turned out to be not the perfect choice for summer. In the hottest days, the fabric emanates some sort of ‘burnt polyester smell’ if you know what I mean. It is also quite transparent so I have to wear slip dress underneath, which cancels the purpose of a loose summer dress. But it sure does look good!
I’m still very intrigued with the pattern, so hopefully I will find another nice fabric for my second Kielo!
Pattern is Kielo wrap dress by Named patterns (PDF), size 38 printed at 92%
When in Indonesia last month, I met up with a couple of my good friends. They are both fashion designers, so of course one of our destinaton was the fabric store! I had often visited fabric stores with them about 20 years ago when the three of us were in fashion school, so it was quite a nostalgic journey.
The store is called Pronto Moda in Mayestik area, Jakarta, quite a big store with four floors and a considerable choice of fabrics. It was not crowded at all, so the shopping experience was really comfortable.
My friend told me that the fabrics in the store are quite cheap and he was right! I bought several fabrics there and one of them is this striped terrycloth jersey at about USD3/metre. I’m very happy with my purchases here.
Drape drape dress no.3
The fabric is quite perfect for summer dress. As I was looking for the right pattern, I stumbled across several dresses by sewing bloggers made from the Drape Drape pattern book by Hisako Sato.
Actually I have had this book (in Japanese) since 2009 but somehow never made anything from it. This book is now available in English as well.
Dress no.3 is a very interesting pattern with only one piece of pattern. The dress is closed with an invisble zipper at the seam across the back. Since many sewing bloggers commented that the dress is rather short, I added 10 cm in length. But at the end, I decided to cut it back to its original length. I guess Japanese patterns are a good fit for petite body types.
I cut size M with no fitting alterations. Since my fabric is quite stretchy, I omitted the back zipper. The dress might look rather complicated, but sewing it is quite easy! The instruction has sewing order so you will know which one goes first. The neckline and sleeves hem are simply turned in and topstitched, I used zigzag stitches to keep the stretchiness.
At first I thought the dress looked rather shapeless, but I love it immediately after putting it on. It is very comfortable, like wearing a long T-shirt. I love how the stripes of my fabric are meeting in an upward shape at the back. This is now my new favourite dress!
Pattern is dress no.3 from Drape Drape book by Hisako Sato (Japanese pattern), size M.
Summer is here and it means another good reason for a new swimsuit! Luckily a couple of months ago I was offered to be one of the pattern testers for Sophie Swimsuit by Closet Case Files. This swimsuit has classic silhouette and very flattering balconette cups. “View A is a classic one-piece with a pronounced hourglass shape and skinny elastic straps. View B mixes a bra-style halter tied top with an elegant high waisted bikini bottom. With a low cut leg and a full cup, both offer sexily modest coverage.”
Initially I made view A in a quick muslin version only because I’m not really sure about wearing a bikini. But then I saw how good the bikini looked, so I decided to make view B with foam cups and underwires.
The Sophie swimsuit has its own method of measurements. According to this system, my underbust size is 0 with cup size 5. The only alteration I made was narrowing the center gore because I have small space between breasts. This is something that I always do for any bra pattern.
For the bikini bottom, I had to chop the length quite generously because I’m petite. My bikini bottom was quite high-waisted. I found that I don’t like it although I love seeing high-waisted bikini on other people. As I have a short bodice, there is not many space left between the top and bottom. So I chop the top of the bikini bottom as well.
The fabric and lining are from Okadaya fabric store in Shinjuku. Although I used my own ways in several sections, I find that the instruction is very clear. It also includes stitch types suggestion for every part of the construction. I use black foldover elastic in several parts to add a subtle contrast.
I took my new swimsuit to our trip to Indonesia. We stayed in an apartment that has a small swimming pool on the second floor. In the pictures it may look like that I was in a resort in Bali or somewhere, but actually I was in the middle of busy Jakarta. If you were there, you could hear the sound of cars and trucks passing by. That is not important though, as long as I feel great in my peacock swimsuit!
Pattern is Sophie swimsuit by Closet Case Files (PDF) view B, size 0 cup 5 for top and size 6 for bottom.
Disclosure: The pattern was sent to me for testing purpose. All views and opinions expressed are purely my own.
My newest set! The bra is made with Marlborough bra by Orange Lingerie. The first time I made this pattern, the fit wasn’t too great. Since then I have made several alterations to perfect the fit for my body, such as:
- narrowed the centre piece because I have very little space between breasts
- very narrow cradle
- gothic arc on center front
- back strap extension
If you notice, these are the alterations that I have always made on my bra recently. The cradle and band on all my recent bra are pretty similar, only the cups are different. It is also important to find out the perfect underwire shape for your shape. I just found out that the most comfortable underwire for me are are the ones that can find locally in Okadaya fabric store in Tokyo. A happy coincidence because I don’t have to order for overseas anymore.
Here’s the fit of the bra on me:
The red lace and notions are from a kit by Tailor Made Shop. I use the lace edges on the neckline, edge of power bar, and bottom of the cradle and band. The cups are fully lined and all the seams are enclosed inside. The lace back band are lined with beige power net from my stash.
Initially I feel that the 3/8″ (1 cm) width straps are too narrow, I usually use 5/8″ (1.5 cm) width straps. But then I was glad to use the narrow straps because they are perfect for the dainty look of the red lace.
The power mesh from the kit is quite generous that I made a couple of panties and still have some left. I combined the power mesh with red tricot from my stash. The first panties are made with my favorite pattern from Merckwaerdigh, the low-rider panty. I have made this pattern several times. The edges are finished with red foldover elastic.
The other pattern is The Ultimate Burlesque Panties by Ohhh Lulu. This pattern has high waist with several variations on the back. I made the ruched back variations. I rarely wear high-waist panties but it turned out that they are quite comfortable. Next time I will line the front part with power mesh so they can also act as shapewear.
I think this might be one of the prettiest thing that I have ever made! The red lace is very pretty and the fit is really comfortable. I feel beautiful every time I wear this et under my clothes, even though nobody can see them. It is my pretty little secret!
Disclosure: The bra and underwear kit was sent to me by Tailor Made Shop for review. The views and opinions expressed are purely my own.