Have you seen the Spring/Summer 2017 collection: The Playground, from Named Clothing? It is inspired by the practicality and simplicity of childrenwear. I’m all about practical and comfort so I was very excited about this collection.
It is launched two days ago and I immediately picked the simplest pattern to make, The Ninni culottes. It is a pattern for wide-legged cullotes with elastic waistband and in-seam side pockets. I made it in very stable black jersey.
To make my life easier, I keep a Google spreadheet for all alterations that I have to made for each pattern. For Named patterns, I use size 34 with these alterations: shortening 2 cm on the hipline, 5 cm above knee, and 5 cm below knee, at total 12 cm. Twelve centimetres might sound a lot, but it has worked very well for me. Named patterns are drafted for height 172 cm while my height is 150 cm.
I’m very happy with the result! My alterations has worked quite well, as you can see the length of the culottes is at the same proportion as the original pattern. These culottes are very basic, it means that it will have lots of wear in the future!
Linden sequin T-shirt
Now for the not-so-basic T-shirt, I used knit sequin fabric for the bodice and the leftover black jersey for the sleeves and neck binding. The pattern is Linden sweatshirt by Grainline studio that has became one of my favorite.
I use overlocker for all the seams except for finishing the sleeve and bodice hem. The sequin on the fabric is very soft and can be cut easily, so they didn’t need to be removed from the seamlines.
I like how the sequins are a bit muted and not glaringly reflecting lights all over the place. It is quite a nice detail to an otherwise very simple black T-shirt!
I’ve been wearing my wool coat that I made a couple of years ago everyday this winter. It’s a really great coat but I got a bit bored of it, so a simple long cardigan seem to be a perfect alternative.
The pattern is Esme maxi cardigan by Named patterns. I made size 34 with lots of shortening alteration, 2 cm above the waist and 10 cm below the waist. FYI Named patterns are drafted for height 172 cm, that is why I have to do lots of shortenings for my 150 cm height.
The fabric is grey sweatshirt fleece with brushed side in white. It’s medium weight with low stretch, perfect for this pattern. Because of the fabric thickness, I made one side of the pocket from jersey to minimize the bulk. I love these big pockets, it is essential in cold weather so I can put my freezing hands.
The cardigan looks good without button, but I decided to add closure so it can be closed in cold days or when bike riding. The closure is three large plastic snap on button in transparent white that really blend with the color of the fabric.
I’ve seen some people shortened the cardigan to hip length that also looks good but this time I wanted to see how I look in maxi cardigan. I must say that the cardigan looks a bit like bathrobe but it’s so comfortable so I don’t care!
The second thing that I made is a simple white sweatshirt. I don’t have any white clothes before because I’m afraid I will get it stained in the first wear. Then my husband got himself a white sweatshirt and I thought it looked good so I wanted to make one.
The pattern is Linden sweatshirt pattern by Grainline studio. I’ve made this pattern a couple years ago and was very pleased with the result. The alteration is the same as the first one that I made, with the bodice shortened 2.5 cm and the sleeves shortened 4 cm.
The fabric is white french terry, a bit thick and not very stretchy. You can see the loops on the wrong side of the fabric.
It turned out that I like the result so much that I wear the sweatshirt almost everyday! So far I managed to keep it stain-free so it’s really great. And here I am with my new ensemble for cold days!
It is getting colder here in Tokyo that I can’t think of sewing anything else but sweater! So I’m very happy to see that the newest pattern from Grainline studio is a sweatshirt pattern.
You must have seen several versions of this Linden sweatshirt popping up around the sewing blogs. I can see why so many people are attracted to it. It is a basic and quite straightforward pattern for a sweatshirt with raglan sleeves and scooped neckline.
I made the black one first. The fabric is very interesting double-faced knit, black on the outside and white on the inside. It is hard to capture by the camera, but the fabric is really more interesting than shown in these photos! In the detail pictures, you can see the white color kinda showing between the black weave.
I made the sweatshirt in size 0, view A. I like my sweater longer so the bodice is only shortened about 2 cm. The sleeves are shortened 5 cm. I also widened the neck binding a bit because I think the finished neckline is a bit too wide.
Once I know what alterations that I should make, sewing the sweatshirt only took about 15 minutes. I used overlocker for all the seams and sewing machine for the topstitching.
The second version is made with dark blue/purple wool knit. I only had 1.5 m of the fabric so I used view B for the bodice. The bodice is shortened 2.5 cm and the sleeves are shortened 4 cm. I like how the front is scooped a bit and shorter than the back.
The only downside of these sweaters is that my skin doesn’t like wool! I have to always wear long sleeved T-shirt and protect the skin around my neck with fabric scarf. Otherwise I will get some rash around my neck where the binding touch my skin.
Pattern is Linden sweatshirt by Grainline studio, size 0.
I’ve been wanting a pair of easy pants for daily wear when these knit pants were popping out everywhere. Turned out that Papercut patterns is having a competition for one of their pattern, the Anima pants, and that’s why there are lots of people making these pants.
Everyone’s version look so good that I had to order the PDF pattern and made myself a pair. You can also buy the paper version of this pattern, I love the instant-ness of PDF patterns. From the pattern description in the website: “A must-have staple item for those times when you need the perfect balance of casual and cool. Slim leg pant with elasticated waist, drawstring, faux fly front and side pockets. Can be made full, knee length with or without cuffs or as shorts.”
The fabric is medium weight cotton jersey in the color navy. I made size XXS with no alteration except for shortening the legs, as I’m not tall. You might want to check the length of the pants before attaching the cuffs. I like mine to fall just below the ankle.
Sewing the pants was just as easy as it looked. I did have difficulty when sewing the waistband though. The instruction suggested to stitch the top edges of both waistband and elastic together, then fold it over to the inside and topstitch from the outside, stretching as you sew.
Somehow I wasn’t able to do the topstitching as neatly as I want. I suspected that it is because I don’t have foot pedal, my sewing machine has to be turned on and off with a button (gasp!). So everytime I stretch and sew, I have to release the stretching to turn off the machine and it skewed the fabric. Well, after all these years of sewing I suppose should have bought a foot pedal….
Aside from the waistband (which is conveniently covered by the the top), the pants are exactly what I had in mind! I’ve been having lots of success with Papercut patterns, so I’m very happy.
The top is Scout woven tee made with beautiful linen by naniIRO. The pattern of the fabric is called ‘Water window’. Such a perfect name, isn’t it? They remind me of watercolor painting exercise. The fabric needed a simple pattern that can showcase the beautiful color and I think the Scout pattern is perfect for this purpose.
After I finished the top, I wore it rightaway and loved it so much that I wanted another in knit fabric. The only difference from the woven version is the neckline finishes. The woven Scout was finished with bias binding while the knit Scout was finished with folded strip of fabric. Here’s the tutorial by Jen for sewing the knit version of Scout tee.
When I bought the naniIRO fabric for my top, I came across this interesting poly jersey fabric with raised texture. I think it will look beautiful for a winter cardigan but I wanted to make something with it for summer, like another Anima pants! I was only able to get 50 cm of the fabric so it became a pair of shorts. A pair of pants with this fabric for summer would be too hot anyway.
For the second version, I attached the waistband in different way. I folded the waistband over the wide elastic and serge the folded edge to the top edge of the pants. My serger has foot pedal so everything went quicker and -more importantly- neater.
When Shake saw me setting up the tripod and camera, she immediately posted herself in front of the camera. For some reason, she thought that I held some treats in my hand (it was just the camera remote) so here she is in every picture. Of course she got some treats after all because who can’t resist that face?! Also, a brief apperance by Sidra but he didn’t want to show his face 😀
Top pattern is Scout Tee by Grainline studio (PDF), size XXS.
Pants pattern is Anima by Papercut Patterns(PDF), size 0.
Archer button up shirt
Sometimes there’s a project that remain unblogged although it was finished for quite sometime, and the reason is not that I don’t like it. It is because I like it so much that it is either being worn or still in the wash. This shirt is such a project! You might recognize the pattern, The Archer button-up shirt by Grainline studio that every sewing blogger seemed to have made.
From the description on the Grainline studio website: “The Archer Button Up is a loosely fitting button up shirt with long sleeves. View A has angled cuffs and a back pleat at yoke. View B has straight cuffs and a gathered lower back detail.” I made view A in size 0 with no alteration.
After making it, I now understand the rave about this pattern. This shirt is not a simple project with stand-up collar, button plackets, sleeve plackets, pockets, and so on, but the instructions are quite clear that I didn’t encounter any difficulty. The patterns are marked correctly and everything matched. It is very frustrating when a pattern is not marked correctly especially when sewing stand-up collar!
The skirt is actually just finished today. The pattern is Vogue 8697; from the pattern envelope: “MISSES’/MISSES’ PETITE SKIRT: Semi-fitted, tapered, lined skirts A, B, C, D, E, F with shaped waistband, princess seams, back slit, topstitched trim and back zipper. A: contrast waistband. D: contrast sides. E: button trim. A, B, C, D: mid-knee length. E, F: lower calf length.” I made view A in size 10.
The stretch denim was actually leftover from a pair of pants that I cut yesterday (not sewn yet). I didn’t have enough fabric left for the waistband facing so I used different denim fabric that has no stretch. It is actually better because the waistband is supposed to have no stretch. Both the waistband and facing pieces are interfaced. I also inserted rigilene boning to the seamlines of the facing to stabilize the high waistband.
I cut size 10 but then shaved the sideseams considerably so it is probably size 8 now. Other alterations are just the usual shortening on the hip and hem. I didn’t line the skirt per the instructions and only finished the facing edge with grey hem tape.
As I have mentioned, I wear the shirt a lot! It is so simple and versatile. It doesn’t look too table cloth-y anymore as a shirt. I wear it as it is or over t-shirt, with jeans or this skirt. I think these two are quite a perfect match!
Shirt pattern is Archer button-up shirt by Grainline Studio, size 0.
Skirt pattern is Vogue 8697, size 10.