Coat – Burdastyle Sewing Handbook
I’ve always wanted to try making a coat for myself but somewhat scared of it. When I found out that there is a coat pattern in The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook, I knew that it was time to face my fear! I went to Yuzawaya and got myself some pistachio green tweed wool and lining fabric in stripes pattern.
The pattern in this book has no seam allowances and needed to be traced. I use size 34 on bust tapered to 36 on waist and hip. In the tissue-fitting session, I found out that the bodice needed to be shortened and the back needed swayback adjustment. It seems that these two alterations are the ones that I always needed.
After a quick muslin to check the fit, I also shortened the hem a lot (15 cm!) and lowered the neckline (1cm). I drafted a new collar, it is wider, flat, with no rounded corner. The outer collar was cut a bit wider than the undercollar so the seam would roll under. The under collar was cut on bias for a better shape.
The upper front pieces are block-fused, something that I learned from RTW Tailoring Sew along at Pattern Scissors Cloth blog. Actually I was looking for a slip dress pattern, and the blog was suggested (thank you Carmen!). Sherry, the owner of the blog, has generously provided a free gorgeous slip dres pattern, and also a great sewalong about RTW Tailoring.
The upper back pieces of my coat are not block-fused like the front pieces, but I added muslin back stay to keep the shoulders and armholes from stretching out.
The Burdastyle coat uses the same sleeves pattern for both sleeves and sleeves lining, while coat and jacket lining usually are a bit bigger than the outer garment to allow movement. So I learned to make new sleeve lining pattern.
The gathered sleeve was a bit droopy so I sewed a strip of sleevehead on the seam allowance for support. The sleeveheads was bought in Yuzawaya but it can be substituted with bias grain strip of wool or muslin. It really make a difference on the shape of the sleeves.
The side seam pockets were sewed using a technique that I learned from David Page Coffin’s book, Making Trousers for Men & Women. I also made new belt loops and attached them using techniques from this book. The back vent, skirt hem, and sleeve hems were reinforced with strips of fusible interfacing.
Things I should do better next time:
- The coat is quite fitted so I can’t wear too many layers underneath. I could have used some thin interlinings for added warmth.
- I really love the new collar but it was not rolled properly. I should have shaped and steamed the collar prior to attaching.
- The block fusing was not perfect in some parts, there are bubble on several parts if you look really close. Maybe hair canvas and pad stitching for interfacing would make a better result.
- There are a couple of folds around the back area near the sleeves that I don’t know how to eliminate. Is this normal? Should learn more about fitting.
- My sewing machine refused to make a proper buttonholes. After several failed attempts, I decided to use snap-on buttons instead. Should try making bound buttonholes. Scary!
Am I being too picky? I guess the more you learn, the less you know. Anyway, despite all of the faults, I had so much fun making it and learning new things. I love my new coat!
Pattern is from The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook with redrafted collar. Size 34 on bust and 36 on waist and hip.
The Burdastyle Sewing Handbook
It finally arrived! It has been more than a year since I sent the blouse variations that I made for the book, and it is kind of strange to finally see it worn by a model in this beautiful pattern book. I’m so excited! (more…)
After days of postponing and slacking around, I’ve finally finished my blouse for Burdastyle Book! Actually I planned to work on it just after the Yokohama Artist Market, which was, errr, 3 weeks ago, but lots of things happened between then and now.
Suddenly I found the need to make a couch cover, which by the way was something that I should have made months ago. Then I made a pair of shorts and dress for myself. My husband managed to give me a look of slight disapproval (on my procrastination, not on the clothes), but hey, I was just warming up my sewing mood!
And Sidra needed a new messenger bag. Actually he already has a messenger bag, but it’s worn out and I was afraid that the seam might rip sometime. While I was at it, I decided to make use of the fabric and made another tote bag for my husband, who already has a bunch of tote bags. But a new tote bag always makes him happy, and I’m happy when he’s happy!
Last Saturday, we changed the soil for the larva, because there’s no way I can let our kawaii larva stayed in those old and stale soil. Then we went to the chiropractor for my appointment, and after that the three of us went to a local library to read some books. We always do everything together on weekends, but this time my husband and Sidra went swimming while I went back home. But I have to blame the hot summer day because I completely lost my sewing mood after spending several hours biking outside. So when my husband got back from the pool, the fabric was still hung on the living room. I hung it there to give more motivation to myself. It didn’t work, obviously.
That left me with one day to make my blouse. I almost started sewing a summer yukata for Sidra, but my conscience took over desperately and told me to finish the blouse. So I started to work on it, with lots of regret of course, because I would have more time to make it better and saved myself from lots of stress if only I started days earlier. Now I’m not so sure anymore about my work and I even start to think that maybe they will reject it!
I wonder why it is always harder to finish a project when there is a deadline and especially when it is not truly for myself. Fortunately Burdastyle told me to make this blouse in my size, so at the end of the day, I’ll get to wear it after all. Or to be more exact, in about 18 months after the book is published. Oh.
I’ve just finished putting all my stuff in the shop! Please check it out and if you’re a petite, there might be something for you there!
:: SHOP ::
You see that stripes fabric on the picture? The colors remind me of peanut butter and strawberry jam! The fabric is shantung silk that Burdastyle sent me for the Burdastyle Book project. It’s a bit different from what I have in mind, but I think the texture and colours are very pretty. I’ve never worked with this kind of fabric, so I kinda feel excited and nervous at the same time.
Now that I have the fabrics, thread, and pattern, all I have to do is start working on my blouse! But I’ve been slacking around these last couple of days, doing nothing but browsing on pretty sites. I need to pull myself together now and start. Maybe today I will… print the pattern. Then I can get some rest after that with the feeling that I have made a progress in my project!
Yokohama Akarenga Sōko (picture from Wikipedia)
The Artist market is coming this weekend! If you will be around Yokohama, please drop by and give our booth a peek. Kayo from Crochetie, Chie from VivatVeritas, and I will take turn guarding the booth. The market will be held from Friday, July 2nd to Sunday, July 4th, in Yokohama Akarenga Sōko (The Red Brick Warehouse), a historical building that is now being used used as a complex that includes a shopping mall, banquet hall, and event venues. I’ve never been there myself and excited to see it. We’ll be in booth #38!
I still have a couple of days before the market but I think I will stop making things by tomorrow and have the rest of the day off. I have an appointment with a chiropractor every Saturday, so we move it to tomorrow afternoon. I’m so happy about this chiropractor because we’ve been looking for one to treat my back problem. One day a leaflet came into our mailbox, advertising a chiropractor that is very near to our house! I’ve been seeing her every week for about a month now and I’m very happy about the result. My mattress and pillows are changed to special kind for people with back problem, and I have to do some kind of exercise everyday, assisted by my darling husband.
I’m not expecting that my scoliosis problem can be cured and my back will be magically straightened, but my back pain has now become less frequent and I’m not as easily getting tired as before. That’s more than enough for me! The chiropractor practises in her own house, so Sidra likes the visits because he can play with the chiropractor’s kids and she gives him a fruit ice every time. Anyway, my husband usually acts as my translator, but tomorrow Sidra will do the job (if he’s not busy playing with those kids).
In another news, you might have heard that BurdaStyle is going to publish the BurdaStyle Book in 2011. The news has been officially announced in the blog yesterday. The book will feature five new open source patterns with different variations that the readers can share and sell. The concept of the book focuses on variations made by a select group of international community members and designers, and I’m happy to announce that I’m going to be one of them! I will make a blouse for this project, can’t wait to see all the other patterns and variations!