Side pleats dress (Butterick 5672)
I found this pretty double-knit wool while I was supposed to buy something else in Okadaya. It happens a lot, doesn’t it? Anyway, I bought a meter of it without knowing what to made of the fabric.
Butterick 5672
I browsed through my pattern stash and found this Butterick 5672. From the pattern envelope: “Close fitting, lined dress has left side invisible zipper, left dart and left pleats from drape effect.” Looks perfect!
The instructions are very clear-written. The pattern itself is simple with only four outer pieces. In my initial sketch of this dress on my croquis, I drew the dress with sleeves. But after laying down the pattern pieces, I realized that the fabric is not enough so I chose view A, the sleeveless dress.
There are several alteration that I made to the pattern pieces. As usual, the bodice pieces are shortened, and the skirt hem was shortened a lot due to fabric limitation. I also added a center back seam for zipper instead of left side zipper because I wanted to make a swayback adjustment. The pictures of the alteration that I made on the bodice pattern can be seen in here and here .
As the whole dress is cut on bias, I ironed a strip of fusible interfacing to the center back seam as a reinforcement for sewing the zipper. The dress is fully lined in tricot, the lining is also used to finish the neckline and armscyes.
I ended up pinching about 1 cm on each side from underarm to waist. The neckline was gaping a bit, this happens to me a lot so next time I should add this alteration to my usual adjustments.
As for the finishing, the double knit was very stable and doesn’t fray a bit so I just left the edge raw. The hem was finished with vintage seam binding and catch-stitched to the inside. The hem of the lining was simply zigzagged. The lining was peeking a bit around the armscyes, but these can be easily fixed as they are slip-stitched by hand (if I’m not too lazy to do it though).
Recently I took The Couture Dress online course by Susan Khalje at Craftsy and had fun learning a lot of things. One of them was adding a couple of bra strap carriers on the inside of the shoulder using thread chains and small snaps. This is very useful especially for dress with wide neckline like this. I also made these thread chains to connect the skirt and the skirt lining.
One thing that I kinda regretted from this dress was the color. I really like the color but I just made a coat in similar color! If I wear this dress with the coat, it will be too… green. But aside from all those little things, I love love love the result! It fits wonderfully and the fabric feels fabulous. It is still too cold to wear the dress outside like this so it would be definitely worn with layers. But spring is coming!
Pattern is Butterick 5672 view A, size 8 on bust and 10 on waist and hip.
PS: Thank you for all the sweet comments on my wedding anniversary post! ♥♥♥
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I wish I could make this. I have been admiring this pattern for ages, but cos its cut on a bias, I can’t make it – still a beginner. Is there any way to get around this? Can I cut it “normal”?
You can try using a pretty stable double-knit fabric like the one I use. I didn’t encounter any particular trouble handling it.
The Slapdash Sewist in this post used drapey rayon cut in straight grain for the back part of the dress so I believe it can be done.
I really LOVE this pattern and the fabric you chose is terrific!
its like forever dress victoria Beckham
Love your style!
Oh, I love this dress! The fabric and color are just gorgeous!
I’ve been trying couture techniques, too. I’ve done the lingerie straps and the thread chains for the lining. However, I’ve never read from a book how to do either of them, that would definitely be interesting … especially to see if I’ve been doing them correctly
Oh, so beautiful and inspiring! Thanks for sharing.
Lovely dress. I’m not sure I had even paid any attention to this dress until I saw your version. I’ve not added this to my list thanks to your work. Love the color too!
This is the most stunning dress ever. Amazing colour. You look gorgeous!
Wow. That looks absolutely stunning on you! I saw the pattern, almost bought it, but I’m afraid I don’t have a figure like you
.
Love how you showed the techniques as well.
it’s a knockout! Everything looks perfect.
Stunning dress, you look gorgeous and the color is great.
This colour really suits you and the dress is stunning.
That looks amazing, wow!
Beautiful job on the dress, you look great in it! Happy anniversary also…
Oh my goodness, your dress is so lovely. I’m so glad I already have that pattern. I want one the same color as yours.
Can’t wait to see your version!
You’ve made it looked very classic and elegant.
What a lovely dress, I love the way it drapes on the side, and the green is just perfect!
What a lovely dress! It’s so flattering on you! Also, I’m currently watching all of the Couture Fress videos on Craftsy, and I’m definitely enjoying them. I haven’t gotten to the thread loops though. Did you make the dress? I’d love to see it if so!
My pattern hasn’t arrived yet, but I have other pattern that I’m planning to use for this class. I’m definitely going to make one!
I absolutely love this dress, its suits you like a glove,well done!
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hi notiva! the dress is so pretty!! i love how your style evolved over time. i remember seeing you make a lot of sack dress type, but now i’m seeing more fitted dresses and such, it’s lovely to see the transition. how was susan khalje’s class? i’m considering taking it, but i wonder if it is similar to gertie’s class? any thoughts?
There are definitely several overlapped things, but Susan uses a model to fit the muslin so it shows more clearly. She also shared lots of little information throughout the video. But if you look for something really different from Gertie’s class, maybe this one is not. I wish they will make a class about fitting pants soon. Gertie will launch a new Sew Retro class soon on jacket though, I want it too!
So gorgeous! I was not sure looking at the dress on the hanger, but it creates a lovely shape on the body and fits immaculately – jealous..;)
Yes on the hanger it looks like a strange sculpture
Thank you Sophia!
Za za zoo! You look amazing in that dress. I have this pattern, but your version is almost unrecognizable to me. It is an upgrade for sure, especially with your fabric choice.
Really flattering dress! You look beautiful and classy. I love the pattern and color. I am also taking the Couture dress class soon..can’t wait to learn some nice techniques
I think you just need to make a new coat to wear with this dress because it is a total knockout!
Very flattering dress for you. One of my favorites for you that you’ve posted.
Oh! Lovely! The color, the pleats, the little details—what a beauty!
It’s beautiful. You are very talented.
This is stunning! I LOVE the color, and the fit is perfect! Yay! I say you can’t have too much of a color that lovely!
Oh I love the white shoes paired with the green dress! The dress is amazing!
WOW, this dress is a stunner. Beautifully made and worn.
Wowweee, truly a stunner dress. Love it!
You look fabulous in this dress! I find the pleats very flattering on you and it looks like your fitting changes were perfect.
I have been wearing some sleeveless dresses in the winter with a 3/4 length shirt underneath. I find this works well with bold colours and tights or leggings on the bottom. You might be able to pull this off with this dress too.
Lovely work!
This is a great colour on you and a great dress. Very stylish. I don’t think it is too much green as the coat is a very different and muted green… I’d put a big splash of fushia or a purple with it i.e a scarf if you want to wear them together. It fabulous!
That is a great idea! Now I began to see them with new eyes, thank you!
Love color, looks so nice, cant’ belive it is double-knit wool …for plate.
Stunning! It’s perfect.
This is a bit of a change from your usual style, but I have to say you look absolutely stunning in this dress!!! The colour is fantastic and, as always, the workmanship is perfect. How I wish my handmade clothes looked that good on the inside!
I used to not pay much attention to the inside because I was impatient, but all those little details really makes much difference to the dress when it is worn. They are not difficult, just needs a little bit more time
This is just gorgeous. Thanks for showing all the adjustments you made. I hope you feel like a million bucks when you wear this. You should!
Yes I do! Thank you Mainelydad!
oh wow, this dress is gorgeous! I’m really loving the color and the pattern! I may have to search this one out!
Gorgeous dress and I love that colour.
wowza! you look like you spent £250 in an expensive lady’s dress shop for this. super chic! It makes me think that before I graduate and become a doctor I really should learn dressmaking skills like yours…presumably once you’re at the pattern altering stage it’s not hard to add pockets to things (which is the major issue with clothes for me…well that and I’m 180cm!) so that there’s somewhere to attach your bleep (pager) etc!
you are such an inspiration. and a beautiful one to boot!
You can learn dress making now
It is a very relaxing activity and we got ourselves a bunch of nice clothes a as a result too. I’m small so it is not very easy to find clothes that fit me well, now I can make them myself 
You look gorgeous!!
And congratulations on your anniversary.
I never cease to marvel at your skills. The dress is stunning!
Oh my goodness gracious, you look absolutely fabulous! So much so, I had to de-lurk to tell you that I love that dress on you. I’ve passed by that pattern before and always dismissed it because I didn’t like the envelope illustrations, but made up in that color? I might have to go take another look!
Glad that you have delurked! Thank you
You look absolutely stunning. I love the color too, very classy!!
Thank you Yoshimi!
perfect~ i love the fabric & green color that you choose
It looks fantastic! Really glamorous and such a good fit.
So perfect! The fit is incredible, too.
Your past sewing experiences definitely contributed to your sharpened skills. 
Oh wow, you look stunning! The side pleats are very classy…This blew me away!
Gorgeous!!! Gorgeous dress!!! And it suits you very well!!! I like the color, it is very cheerful, and will be perfect for spring. The fabric is really beautiful, it looks like it has a nice texture… You look gorgeous in this dress!
XOX
knock. OUT!!!
and many happy wishes on your anniversary. no doubt when you step out in this, he’ll propose all over again.
Oona your comments always make me me laugh! I have to show this to my husband!
D
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